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John Myshkoff

August 2019 puukko

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98 x 22mm blade cocobolo handle, ebony spacers, peened brass front bolster,  and convex rear brass bolster.

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I'll say it again, you've got those down  !!.........................B)

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Thank you Clifford and Adam for viewing and kind words.

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Simple and gorgeous....  You really have those nailed down. 

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beginning to like those little pokers more and more, this is a fine made example

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Posted (edited)

Thank you Karim.  About seven years ago my perspective about knives changed.  I make knives that have blades 95mm-110mm in length and 3.5mm thick.  For my outdoor activity and that of other people I know, this size knife will do all we want.  I also have a fondness for the Finnish puukko.  The rhomboid grind is a very satisfying challenge to complete and use.

Edited by John Myshkoff

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32 minutes ago, John Myshkoff said:

The rhomboid grind is a very satisfying challenge to complete and use.

Is this knife ground with a rhomboid cross section? I just assumed it was flat with a. Scandi going for the bevel. Any chance there is a way to take a picture that shows  the cross section (like on end or something). Is the cut into the bolster rhomboid or do you somehow transition it to rhomboid as you taper? Sorry for all the questions, this just relates to things I’ve struggled with as I try to make puukkos as well.

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Posted (edited)

Hey Adam, The completed knife in the  photo is not rhomboid.  I ground two blades yesterday that are rhomboid in cross section.  The Scandi grind on the pictured completed knife is fitted to an ovoid section puukko handle.  I have seen both types of blades used with this handle.  There are a number of handle types which are typical of certain regions.  The pictured blade below shows the 112mm x 22mm blade I ground yesterday.  Thursday evening I converted my grinder to 1.5hp 3ph motor and vfd. What a difference.  The photos are the best I could do.  BTW I grind the rhomboid blades vertically.  The last one I made is an 80mm x20mm x 3mm blade for small carving projects.  Not in a handle yet.  I ground a 110mm x 23mm this morning which is about 80% finished. I will try to get better pics of the blades.

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Edited by John Myshkoff

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Posted (edited)

 Adam: I just photographed this morning's blade so you can see the rhomboid section better.  I will grind the edge thinner then to HT.

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Edited by John Myshkoff

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Dang, John, that is some CLEAN grinding!

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Thank you Alan.  I go over the blade with a Trizac belt.   

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John, do you use files at all on getting the grind lines just right? I think I would have to. I am impressed.

Great job.

kc

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Posted (edited)

Kevin, Thanks for viewing . I mark the midline after I profile with a scribe.  Then I mark the height  of the edge with a scribe. No files.

Edited by John Myshkoff

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Damn nice work John; you have that dialed in.  Your fit and finish is enviable.  I hope one day to see you make bowie or fighter

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4 hours ago, Wes Detrick said:

Damn nice work John; you have that dialed in.  Your fit and finish is enviable.  I hope one day to see you make bowie or fighter

Thank you for your praise of my work, Wes.  Coming from a professional knife maker of your skill is humbling and most gratifying.  BTW your work has been teaching me since I have joined this forum. 

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Posted (edited)
On 8/12/2019 at 1:51 AM, Wes Detrick said:

  I hope one day to see you make bowie or fighter

I dug out some old failed blades and fixed some of the flaws. Top to bottom blades are 5.5" fighter the ricasso tapers  toward the bottom, a 6.5" fighter and two 3" last ditch wharncliffes.  I'm still making Puukkos.   I profiled a 5.25" dagger, edges not ground yet.

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Edited by John Myshkoff
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Posted (edited)

Thanks Zeb.  I ground a 5.6" dagger today  out of a piece of .188" 1084 steel.  I still need to grind the tang a bit more and the edge grinds are almost to my pre HT dimensions as scribed.  I did the major grinding horizontally with an 80 grit zirconia belt then vertically to get the grinds really straight. The guard will be German silver and the handle will be either redheart or ebony.   I have to thank Wes Detrick for getting me to think out of my usual style.  The bottom photo looks odd because of the angle.

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Edited by John Myshkoff

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On 8/16/2019 at 1:38 PM, John Myshkoff said:

I dug out some old failed blades and fixed some of the flaws. Top to bottom blades are 5.5" fighter the ricasso tapers  toward the bottom, a 6.5" fighter and two 3" last ditch wharncliffes.  I'm still making Puukkos.   I profiled a 5.25" dagger, edges not ground yet.

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Yes!  I would love to see the Bowies finished.  

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Posted (edited)

I posted this 5.5" x 1" dagger blade before when it was near finish ground prior to HT. At that time I ground the blade vertically and it seemed easier than grinding horizontally. For me that is true to a certain point. Then it dawned on me that I now have variable speed and maybe I should rethink my procedure. So horizontal grinding at speeds I can control my work was the answer. Since I am not in a rush, I can take the time to learn at a slower pace. The steel is 1084 from Aldo. Grinding of the edge is almost complete. When it is the thickness of a dime, out it goes to HT.

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Edited by John Myshkoff

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I'm jealous of how straight and crisp you can keep your bevels.  Both on your puuko's and on this dagger.  That's going to be a pretty blade when you're done with it.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Alex.  Before variable speed the junk blade box was getting full.  Now I have started fixing the mistakes and the new blades benefit from the added practice.  Prior to converting to VFD and 3 phase motor, post grinding meant hours of hand work.   I also study the work of professional smiths and non pros who do exceptional work. There are many smiths here and other forums who post WIPs and share their techniques.

 

Edited by John Myshkoff

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