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Joshua States

Turkish Twist progress shots

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I have some progress shots on a 4-bar twist for a commission I'm working on. 

Surface ground after welding.

Surfaced V2.jpg

Pattern reveal after a light etch.

Lite etch (4) V2.jpg

Lite etch (5) V2.jpg

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So the client has picked a blade and handle style, so I'm ready to finish working the blade. I start with a design drawing. After cutting off the first 1" of the bar to use as a spacer, I can do the light forging to shape. 

1 cutoff.jpg

This is one of those patterns that I do not like to do any serious forging to shape on, because it might disrupt the pattern significantly. Because I like using templates, I created a template for this blade from my design drawing.

2 Template V2.jpg

The arrow on the template indicates the spot where the dropped point intersects the straight spine. I will use this in the next few steps.

There are two different ways I handle the tip/point. One is to just cut/grind the bar to profile shape and let the pattern terminate wherever it meets the profile curve. The other one is to shape the point so the pattern flows with the curve and terminates along the top edge of the dropped point. This requires removal of a portion of the bar.

I lay the template on the bar and mark the location of the intersection (where the arrow is) on the bar.

3 marks V2.jpg

Now I rotate the template until the point meets the bottom corner, and the top of the template meets the mark on the bar.

4 Scribe V2.jpg

Scribe the curve of the dropped point and remove the excess.

5 Scribed line V2.jpg

6 Trim v2.jpg

The straight edge of the bar is where the blade edge will be. This needs to get forged upward until the tip matches the template. Hammering is done on the anvil, with the blade edge up.

7 Forge tip V2.jpg 

I forge in the point, tang and start the choil until it matches the template, or is a little oversized.

Finished forging V2.jpg

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And you end up with this.

Test etch (2) V2.jpg

Test etch (6) V2.jpg

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This is getting pinned for the excellent demo of how to make the pattern follow the line of the edge.  Simple enough, but often overlooked!  Thanks, Josh.

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Posted (edited)

 Edge is up in the close-up photo BTW. Thank you Sir Longmire. You are a gentleman and a scholar. 

Edited by Joshua States

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Posted (edited)

Some of you may have noticed the white lines travelling along the weld seams in the last two photos. This is an inherent risk in multi-bar patterns. I demonstrated how to avoid this in my 2016 KITH thread using graphite spray on the mating surfaces before welding. (A trick I learned from Tim Hancock) Well, I just plumb forgot to do that on this blade and there are those nasty little lines.

Have no fear, @Gary Mulkey showed how to eliminate them after the fact through normalizing. So I took Gary's method, added a little Hancock, and put my own twist on it. 

I sprayed the blade with graphite, wrapped it up in tissue paper and stainless steel foil. Then I stuck it in the oven at 1350 for an hour.

No more lines.

Final test etch (2).jpg

Final test etch (3).jpg

 

Edited by Joshua States
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This is awesome Josh!  I love the Turkish twist patterns and I am excited to see this finished.

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I dont know how this totally slipped passed me. This is an awesome thread that definitely deserved to get pinned. Thank you Joshua!

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I'll have to try that long soak thing. I've noticed most of my blades with twist above a high carbon bar will get an auto hamon. 

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On 9/4/2019 at 4:14 PM, Zeb Camper said:

I'll have to try that long soak thing. I've noticed most of my blades with twist above a high carbon bar will get an auto hamon. 

Are the twists with Wrought or low-C? 

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On 9/4/2019 at 7:14 PM, Zeb Camper said:

I'll have to try that long soak thing. I've noticed most of my blades with twist above a high carbon bar will get an auto hamon. 

This happened to my 2018 KITH blade. I suspect it was the wrought iron leeching carbon from the high carbon steel which i believe is where Joshua is going with his question.

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49 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

This happened to my 2018 KITH blade. I suspect it was the wrought iron leeching carbon from the high carbon steel which i believe is where Joshua is going with his question.

Exactly. I show how to avoid this when welding the bars together in my 2016 KITH thread by adding the graphite between the bars.

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Awesome thread there!.. Awesome thread here! Never heard of the graphite trick.

And I'll even get the auto hamon with the typical 1080/15n20 blend over a solid 1075, or 1080 bar. And I'm talking about low Mn 1080 obviously. My kith knife this year has one. I didnt go too overboard normalizing, but did do some over critical (maybe not 3) and at critical, and low red. I know I did each cycle, but not sure of how many per... 

Thanks!

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Brief update.

Yesterday I hardened & tempered the blade. Today I finish ground and hand sanded to 400 grit and drew back the tang area.

Hand sanded & tang temper (2) V2.jpg

After cleaning, I rub off the tempering oxidation with dry 400 grit paper and do a 10 minute etch, followed by another 5 minute etch. There are a few more etch cycles to go through before light sanding to bring out the shiny stuff, but this gives a good look at the final patterning.

Finish test etch (1) V2.jpg

Finish test etch (2) V2.jpg

Not what I typically get in a Turkish twist...……..
This will get more pronounced and much darker during subsequent etch cycles.

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Cool! This really illustrates how the removal of material effects patterning on twists. 

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1 hour ago, Zeb Camper said:

Cool! This really illustrates how the removal of material effects patterning on twists. 

Niels Provos did a good video of that and provided a few photos that really show how the depth of the grind changes the pattern.

https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/37018-pattern-welding-explained/

 

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Ready for fittings and handle.

Finished etch (1) V2.jpg

Finished etch (2) V2.jpg

 

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