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Leather cutting tool.


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So I have issues cutting my leather for sheaths with an exacto. Scissors suck for this ( at least mine do ) and I dont have cash to buy something specific to leatherworking. 

I was thinking a kiradashi would make the perfect tool, which I have the materials to make easily.  I have 1/8th stock (W2) 3/16th stock ( 1084) and 1/4th stock (W2 and 80crv2) and the ability to heat treat all of it. I am leaning towards using the W2 for this. Its going to be a single use tool specific for sheaths. I was planning on going chisel grind for right handed with a low angled grind. 

 

Thoughts on this plan, grinding it out would take me like 20 minutes and since its a work tool I have no thought to making a pretty tool, I just gotta get some sheaths made this weekend and dont want to spend 20 minutes going over cut lines a dozen times.

I should add, the 1/8th W2 I have.

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This is one I made for cutting leather. AOL is 5.5” with a 1.25” blade. The blade has a very slight curve to it and bevelled on both sides to better manage curves. It works very well though I have to admit it is mystery steel. Sorry for the crappy picture. 

9635F5FA-F578-4A21-8192-12B128AA3BF9.jpeg

Edited by Charles du Preez
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On 9/6/2019 at 5:31 PM, Robert D. said:

I have issues cutting my leather for sheaths with an exacto.

What size blades are you using? I typically use #22 or #24

https://www.dickblick.com/products/x-acto-blades/#photos

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Joshua- Honestly I have no idea, I bought one from the hardware store and using it was a nightmare.

Doug- I tried one of those as well, and while it worked better then the exacto, it was still a pain in the neck to use, but I think I might have bought leather thicker then I should have, which is my own dumb fault. 

BillyO- Yes, I am going to give the Kiradashi a try first before I try to make any other tooling for this. I had the perfect sized piece of scrap W2 laying around from another project so I figured I would give that a try before trying to make something more complex. 

 

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57 minutes ago, Robert D. said:

Joshua- Honestly I have no idea, I bought one from the hardware store and using it was a nightmare.

You probably have one of those skinny little handles, about as big as a pencil, and some really thin and pointy #11 blades. That would cause severe language when trying to cut sheath leather. I like the #6 handle for cutting veg tan 7 oz. leather. The #22 blades are good for cutting curved lines. The #24 are good for getting into tight inside corners.  I also use a rotary cutter. These come in different sizes and price ranges. Mine is pretty small, but it does the trick, especially on straight lines with a ruler as a guide.

Edited by Joshua States
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You know you can sharpen those, right?  Pretty easily, too.  A couple of strokes on a hard arkansas stone followed by a quick strop on leather charged with white diamond and you're good as new.  But yes, a #11 won't do thick leather well no matter what.  I use a Stanley utility knife, the kind with the thick razor-blade-looking blades.  They're great up to 7oz thickness, and need two passes at 9oz and up.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

I should add, that after I cleaned this up and sharpened it, it is an AWESOME tool for leatherworking. What used to take 4-5 passes and messing up at least once, I can now do in basically one pass, thing cuts leather like warm butter. 

Ill post a finished pic when I get home. It also works WAY better then the xacto blade on scoring kydex. 

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I use a set of spring loaded shears works great for cutting out leather patterns...been using the same set of shears for close to 10 years now

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I use belt sander to finish edges on my leather work, but Iv'e never used a band saw on it LOL! 

 

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I evened out my seam on the belt grinder.... 

Wooooohoooo was my girlfriend less then happy with me over that smell. I had no idea it would stink that bad or I would have opened all the doors.... 

Might stink worse then Ebony....

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