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Wedding set wip


Mike Ward
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My sister is getting married in January and for a wedding present I’m making them a full 6 piece knife set. Kinda doing all this work just because I can, practice and I need a long project for the school year.  A few weeks ago, I went over to another bladesmiths shop and made a bar of ~180 layer random pattern Damascus. We were able to get ~1.25x.25x.24. I’m planning on a chef, carving, utility, paring and 2 steak knives.

I made a few drawing of each type of knife as a reference to go off of. The end pieces are probably gonna look similar but not exact. My sister and her fiancé liked all of the drawings on the bottom. It’s kinda helped that he has made knives before and knows what I’m talking about when discussing shapes and whatnot while my sister is befuddled.

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Dim: ~7.5”x2”

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Dim: ~7”x1.25”

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Dim: 5”x1.5”

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They like the middle paring one. Dim: 3”x1”

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Dim: 4”x1” 

Last weekend, I forged and ground the chef knife and utility. For the chef knife, I cut out the drawing and used that as a template to go off of.   The tang I set first before cutting off the bar, cut it off at 4.25” from the heel then broke the edges on the point. That amount of material is enough to give a 7.5x2x~1/8 forged blade. If you’re braver than I, you could probably could get more length. From there, lengthened it by drawing down the width and thickness to a distal taper.

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Once the bar is tapered, I went back to the heel and used my more rounded hammer and my cross pein to draw down the heel. With the cross pein, I drew material from the middle of the blade back into the heel to get more height. From there, I bananaed the blade down and did beveling and profile adjustments.

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With the utility knife, I again set the tang before cutting 3” off the bar from the heel. The amount of material is a guesstimate based off of other projects and it seems to be working out. I did the same basic process as the chef knife on this one too.

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Right now these are ready for heat treatment for which I’m going to send out so that they’re done properly in a temp controlled oven. They are both at .115” on the spine and about .05” on the edge. The chef knife is at 7.5” by 1 7/8” at the heel which is perfect. The utility is 5.25” long and 1.5” at the heel.

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This is basically a big opportunity for me to do stuff I’ve never done before for some people I care about. Plus, therapy for my senior year of college when I need to get away.

What do y’all think? Anything wrong or off?

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And the full set. I finished grinding this morning and then normalized them all 3x. Now I got problems. The chef, carving and utility knives all warped and I stupidly did not leave enough meat to grind them out. I think my best bet is either shim and temper or pull out in the quench and clamp between two boards. What do you think?

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So they're just normalized, not hardened?  If so, just bend 'em back straight and do one more normalization.  If they still warp, you're doing something wrong, like laying them down before they're cool enough to do so.  Always try to fix warps before hardening, it's much easier.

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Good looking forgings. (tangs look a bit stumpy mind!) - I normalise at least x3, and they tend to move about each cycle, progressively less. I push them back to true before the next cycle, and I now tend to get 'true' from the quench. 

Sometimes on 200mm plus knives they still gently banana after quench, but its easily bent back to true in the 30 seconds of grace time you get, I always wear the red welders gauntlets when im quenching so I can hold the hot blade for 'true up' !

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  • 4 weeks later...

Been awhile but I got them heat treated and finish ground. The big chef and the carving both warped at their tips but I got them out with the shim and temper method. 

These are at only 120 grit with a quick sneak peak etch.
 

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Yall better men than I. if my stuff warps after quench it goes to the scrap pile. big pile btw.

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  • 4 months later...

Well, this didn’t turn out to be a wip but they’re all done. By far, the most challenging project I’ve ever done. Looking at it now I’m (mostly) happy with the result, but there are things that I would go back and change if I had a time machine. So much learned and still only scratched the surface.


The handles are cocobolo with copper spacers and pins. The steel is ~180-190 layers of 1084 and 15n20 with the last stack having thicker pieces of 1084 to get that bold layer. 

 

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Wow.  Sweet looking set!  

 

30 minutes ago, Mike Ward said:

The steel is ~180-190 layers of 1084 and 15n20 with the last stack having thicker pieces of 1084 to get that bold layer. 

Out of curiosity, how many pieces of damascus and thick 1080 were in that last stack?  

 

Edited by billyO
RIP Bear....be free!

 

as always

peace and love

billyO

 

 

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I think it was: 18 layer alternating, welded and drawn out, cut into 2, and restacked. Welded and drawn out again, then cut into 5 with .5” 1084 stock added under the outer layers.

 

it was last August when the billet was made but I think this is how it was done.

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Thanks for the reply, Mike.  

1 hour ago, Mike Ward said:

I think it was...it was last August when the billet was made but I think this is how it was done.

 

I know the feeling.  I've got 4 billets on my bench that I welded up almost a year ago and trying to remember what they are....

RIP Bear....be free!

 

as always

peace and love

billyO

 

 

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