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Conner Michaux

W-2 quenchant

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Good morning everybody. Im at bladeshow in portland this weekend and decided it would be cheaper to buy materials here and not have to pay shipping, I want to try a few hamons so I picked up a massive bar of W-2 from NJ steel baron ( Heard thats a good steel for Hamons). Ive been told its a somewhat simple heat treat, but you have to cool the steel down faster than others. Should I use Parks50 or is there a cheaper alternative? 

 

 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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52 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

Good morning everybody. Im at bladeshow in portland this weekend and decided it would be cheaper to buy materials here and not have to pay shipping, I want to try a few hamons so I picked up a massive bar of W-2 from NJ steel baron ( Heard thats a good steel for Hamons). Ive been told its a somewhat simple heat treat, but you have to cool the steel down faster than others. Should I use Parks50 or is there a cheaper alternative? 

 

 

Parks50 and HoughtoQuenchK are the most popular. I use QuenchK because parks50 is not available in Canada. Either option is fine...

 

Here's a hamon I did with Aldo's W2 and QuenchK. 

 

On a side note, if your blade is done by stock removal, make a test coupon first to test your HT. Some W2 stock from Aldo is very coarsely spheroidized and requires special temps to have the structure ready for the quench. It's not a concern for forged blades though.

IMG_20190414_122949.jpg

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There's always water or brine, but that takes a lot of trial and error (mostly error) to figure out exactly the heat you need to prevent cracking and warping.  Any fast oil will work fine.  Even hot canola will give you a hamon on Aldo's W2, it just won't have as much activity as it would with a faster oil.

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You know, I've always wanted to try water quenching a W2 blade, I'm just not looking forward to the anxiety filled pacing in the shop prior to HT :lol:.

 

Really nice hamon @Joël Mercier

 

Edited by Will Wilcox

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I can't recommend water due to the uneven vapor jacket during quenching.  Brine will do but I really can't recommend quenching faster than necessary.  If I were to try something that shallow hardening again I think I would try to find a fast oil.  I wish my brother's friend, Ed, was still on this board.  If I remember right he found some fast oil here in Decatur.  If not I can get it from Boss Dog.

 

Doug

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A true quenching oil is something you'll never going to regret buying. It will last a decade to the hobbyist and you can always rely on it for constant results.

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Wow parks #50 is pretty expensive.. Can’t currently afford that. How well does canola or vegetable oil work for hardening w2.  I’ll try a Hamon when I can afford the fast oil.  But right now I think I’ll just work on getting a hard blade out of it. 

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Hot canola does fine, and will give you a hamon if you do your part.  It won't be quite as wildly active as Parks 50, but it will be there.

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10 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Hot canola does fine, and will give you a hamon if you do your part.  It won't be quite as wildly active as Parks 50, but it will be there.

I thought Aldo's W2 hardenability was lower than the average W1. With a manganese content of 0.2% and barely any chrome, are you sure canola will work fine? I mean, has it been tested? Of course I understand that some pearlite does no harm but the steel may be a bit pricey if you don't get the best out of it. 

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I’ll do some testing, I’ve got a lot of steel so I can cut off little squares, grind a bevel on them and heat treat at different temps. And different oil temps.  What is parks AAA? 

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4 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

What is parks AAA? 

It's a 11secs oil. A tad slower than warm canola and great for deeper hardening steels like O1 and 52100.

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2 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

I thought Aldo's W2 hardenability was lower than the average W1. With a manganese content of 0.2% and barely any chrome, are you sure canola will work fine? I mean, has it been tested? Of course I understand that some pearlite does no harm but the steel may be a bit pricey if you don't get the best out of it. 

 

Yep, I've done it.  B) A 7-second oil is of course better, but hot canola is around a 9-second oil.  As I said, you won't get all the activity in the hamon you will with a faster oil,  but you'll get a good strong line with a decent transitional zone.  

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Lots of great info in there, thanks for that. I'm not going to be able to do all of that, but I will do my best.

 

What would happen if you quenched in water for 7-10 seconds and then into vegetable oil?

Edited by Conner Michaux

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What usually happens with kitchen-knife shaped blades of W2 (in my experience, anyway) is they go "tink" at about the two second mark.  If you want to do the water-into-oil thing, you scoop it through the water on its way to the oil, with no pause in the water, taking around one second to get through the water and into the oil.  And use hot water, 130-140 degrees.  

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I'll have to save that to a file after I see if I have to get a new computer or not because of the Windows 7 no longer being supported by Microsoft.

 

It's off topic, but if anyone else is looking at the possibility of having to buy a new computer for the Windows 10, be careful because a sellers out there are trying to dump their machines with Windows 7 on them even though the support for ends January 12th.

 

Doug

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On 11/9/2019 at 6:31 PM, Doug Lester said:

I'll have to save that to a file after I see if I have to get a new computer or not because of the Windows 7 no longer being supported by Microsoft.

I have that link active on my Google drive. It will be there for a while.

Liz is looking into just ditching the Windows 7 OS and replacing it with Windows 10 on the same machine.

Her machine has a ton of RAM and most newer machines can't match it.

Edited by Joshua States

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I'm going to probably take my machine into a computer shop here in town that I trust to see the same thing.  I would have taken it in earlier except I wanted to give the roads a bit of a chance to clear up.  The tech I talked to on the phone said that he'd have to see my machine to see if I could just switch out the operating system.  I'd hate to have to replace it, the only problem I had with it was with my anti-viral program shutting everything down.  That ended up being a $300 problem.

 

Doug

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On 11/10/2019 at 3:31 AM, Doug Lester said:

I'll have to save that to a file after I see if I have to get a new computer or not because of the Windows 7 no longer being supported by Microsoft.

 

It's off topic, but if anyone else is looking at the possibility of having to buy a new computer for the Windows 10, be careful because a sellers out there are trying to dump their machines with Windows 7 on them even though the support for ends January 12th.

 

Doug

Guess I should know better concerning this is how I make my living........heard about Win 7 support ending but I don't know the details....

 

If it helps, I'm still running Win 7 on my PC at home, and probably will until it dies......

 

"Support" ending (usually) only means they're not fixing security holes anymore, so if a hacker finds a new unknown exploit you might be in danger.

 

A good anti virus and responsible browsing should keep you safe. 

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Right click Computer > Left Click properties.  And then use Snipping tool to take a screenshot of the properties ( CPU and Ram specifically ) 

I work IT for a living, I would be more then happy to give recommendations free of charge, you guys have all provided me with a wealth of information free of charge, I would be more then happy to return the favor. 

 

And Gerhard is correct, your Windows 7 machine wont stop working, it just will have limited to no security updates from Windows Update, I ran XP for about 3 years after support ended and still have used Windows XP Virtual machines floating around that I use regularly.

 


 

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