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Shane Savage

making a chef knife for a lady at work

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Very pretty. Would you like some pointers that might help your process?

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On 12/16/2019 at 12:09 PM, Joshua States said:

Very pretty. Would you like some pointers that might help your process?

Always happy for pointers mate =D thankyou for saying you like it

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Personally, I approve your steely determination not to notice you ground off two knuckles.  Can't let the blade win! :lol:

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8 hours ago, Shane Savage said:

Always happy for pointers mate =D thankyou for saying you like it

I really do like what you did with that handle material. Looks sexy.

 

My first suggestion comes from the fact that I primarily use a work rest when grinding at the 2x27 belt. Make yourself a work rest with a flat table perpendicular to the platen and use a push stick to apply even pressure to the blade. This will even out the bevels, ease the hand sanding, and keep you from accidentally taking your knuckles off. ;)

 

Second suggestion is expensive, but well worth it. Get a 9 inch disc sander with variable speed and reversible motor. This will make the bevels truly flat and is great for higher grit sanding.

I think some of those pauses in the onion and tater slicing are because of slight bumps in the bevel.

It will also give you another opportunity to erase some knuckle skin, but at a much finer grit. It's less painful.......:blink:

 

Third, when hand sanding, try a couple of changes.

A narrower platform for the blade. Mine is a 2 inch wide piece of 3/8" steel bar. I keep the edge of the blade off the edge of the bar and facing the point, sand with a primarily "pulling toward me" action. The final strokes are slow and move in only one direction; from the handle toward the point. Pulling seems to produce a more consistent and straight set of grind lines than a pushing motion.

 

Just a few minor suggestions, but I think they will help. I have a couple of grinding vids on my YouTube channel. They are from making a Bowie style blade, but they show the techniques I'm describing well enough that they adapt to any size or style of knife.

 

Looking really good Shane. You have advanced quite a bit since the last video of yours I saw. Keep them coming!

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15 hours ago, Joshua States said:

I really do like what you did with that handle material. Looks sexy.

 

My first suggestion comes from the fact that I primarily use a work rest when grinding at the 2x27 belt. Make yourself a work rest with a flat table perpendicular to the platen and use a push stick to apply even pressure to the blade. This will even out the bevels, ease the hand sanding, and keep you from accidentally taking your knuckles off. ;)

 

Second suggestion is expensive, but well worth it. Get a 9 inch disc sander with variable speed and reversible motor. This will make the bevels truly flat and is great for higher grit sanding.

I think some of those pauses in the onion and tater slicing are because of slight bumps in the bevel.

It will also give you another opportunity to erase some knuckle skin, but at a much finer grit. It's less painful.......:blink:

 

Third, when hand sanding, try a couple of changes.

A narrower platform for the blade. Mine is a 2 inch wide piece of 3/8" steel bar. I keep the edge of the blade off the edge of the bar and facing the point, sand with a primarily "pulling toward me" action. The final strokes are slow and move in only one direction; from the handle toward the point. Pulling seems to produce a more consistent and straight set of grind lines than a pushing motion.

 

Just a few minor suggestions, but I think they will help. I have a couple of grinding vids on my YouTube channel. They are from making a Bowie style blade, but they show the techniques I'm describing well enough that they adapt to any size or style of knife.

 

Looking really good Shane. You have advanced quite a bit since the last video of yours I saw. Keep them coming!

 

 

Thanks yours and Alans advice on sanding last time helped a lot. 

 

Disc sander is on my list of tools i need, one question with that, i thought the sanding disks were hard to replace ? 

 

Not sure how i would go about setting up a rest for my franken beast setup i will see what i can work out 

 

i've followed your channel 

Edited by Shane Savage
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6 hours ago, Shane Savage said:

 

 

Thanks yours and Alans advice on sanding last time helped a lot. 

 

Disc sander is on my list of tools i need, one question with that, i thought the sanding disks were hard to replace ? 

 

Not sure how i would go about setting up a rest for my franken beast setup i will see what i can work out 

 

i've followed your channel 

Thanks for the subscription! I will return the favor next time I log on.

 

I have several different discs for my sander, using the magnetic chuck system from Ron Nielsen,  but I started out with a regular flat disc that isn't really meant to be changed.

For sanding discs, I just use a lightweight adhesive spray by 3M and apply regular 9x11 sheets of paper. Sheets are less expensive than precut discs, easier to apply, and change.

I try to get the sheets applied so I can trim off the excess and get two strips 1" wide for hand sanding. (I'm really pretty cheap when it comes right down to it....)

 

While you figure out the work rest (I'm pretty sure it can be done, even if you just clamp it on with some vice grips), you might want to get a bar magnet.

I have a 9 inch version of this one. and it is great for doing those knives with no ricasso/plunge cuts.

Just attach it to the side of the blade,  hold the magnet, and slide it across the platen from tip to handle heel.

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35 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

lightweight adhesive spray by 3M

Dr. Batson turned me on to the cheapo spray glue from Wal-Mart.  The 3m stuff is just too good!  The cheap stuff peels right off.  

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3 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Dr. Batson turned me on to the cheapo spray glue from Wal-Mart.  The 3m stuff is just too good!  The cheap stuff peels right off.  

I never shop at Wally World......

The trick with the 3M product is a light dusting. My sheets delam off the wheel within an hour.

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10 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

I never shop at Wally World.....

Me either, but I figured I'd pass it along for those who aren't morally opposed.  The "dusting" is a good idea.  Most people think more is better and soak the disk and paper, then complain when it takes an hour with acetone and chisels to remove...

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2 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

it takes an hour with acetone and chisels to remove.

I always say when you want to remove something that's designed by an engineer, ask the engineer how to do it.

https://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3MAC

 

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I use Elmer's spray adhesive. It says permanent or temporary bond on the can. The paper has always been easy to remove and I wipe the disc clean with a shot of brake cleaner. 

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15 hours ago, Joshua States said:

I always say when you want to remove something that's designed by an engineer, ask the engineer how to do it.

https://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3MAC

 

See, that's just too easy.  :lol:

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