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broken back seax sheath


Jeppe
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I am currently working on a sheath for a broken back seax (reenactment combat blunt).

First some progress photos of the leather work. This is only my second attempt at tooling, so I am very pleased with the outcome.

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For the metal fittings I have taken inspiration from two finds:

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Here is the idea of the layout.

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I wanted to add some inlays, so I did a few tests to see what I am able to do.

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Here is a photo-shop of what I am aiming for.

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That is looking really good. there sure is a lot of work in these sheaths.

"Old dogs care about you even when you make mistakes" - Tom HALL - Old Dogs, Children and Watermelon wine.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

finished this one, so here are the last construction photos.

 

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Here is the final product. I am very pleased with how this came out.

 

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I don't know how I missed this, but this is outstanding work. 

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  

 

Josh

http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

J.States Bladesmith | Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith

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  • 2 years later...

I realize there aren't many surviving sheaths to speak of but is there any evidence of wooden cored sheaths wrapped in leather?  I'm working on a commission and I'd like the sheath to be rigid.  I've made several sheaths for seax but this one is longer than anything I've done before.  Wet molded leather stiffens up quite a bit but I still worry about mishandling and stabbing straight through the sheath.  I appreciate your looking at my questions. 

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7 hours ago, Oberu said:

I realize there aren't many surviving sheaths to speak of but is there any evidence of wooden cored sheaths wrapped in leather?  I'm working on a commission and I'd like the sheath to be rigid.  I've made several sheaths for seax but this one is longer than anything I've done before.  Wet molded leather stiffens up quite a bit but I still worry about mishandling and stabbing straight through the sheath.  I appreciate your looking at my questions. 

In general no wooden cores. But you may just be working with too soft leather. Depending on the tanning process, leather can be really hard and stiff, even more then rawhide. 

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Jeroen Zuiderwijk

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking

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12 hours ago, Oberu said:

Wet molded leather stiffens up quite a bit but I still worry about mishandling and stabbing straight through the sheath. 

Oak tanned leather is what you want to get. it comes in various thicknesses, dries very stiff, and is great for carving or tooling. For the one I recently made I used what we call 8/9 ounce. It's 4.5 mm thick. To stop the point from stabbing through, form the opening to fit the end of the handle and limit how far into the sheath it goes.

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“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  

 

Josh

http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

J.States Bladesmith | Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith

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Thanks fellows.  After speaking with a good friend I've decided to do a  rawhide liner over the blade and then do the sheath around it.  I'm going to use 10oz skirting for the sheath.  It's a longer piece and quite pointy so wish me luck!

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