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If I was to forge some Japanese style bladesmiths hammers in the 2 to 3 lb range would anyone be interested in purchasing them? And would I be allowed to post them for sale in the tailgate sales section?

I can forge them with an angled handle and with the handle at 90° from the head. 

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Sure Jeremy. I might as well be up for one. Square head if possible. 2-3 lbs also.

Have a 4.5 dogshead and a 2 pound but neither are square faced. 

 

Gary LT

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4 hours ago, Gary LT said:

Square head if possible.

 

Square head with an angled handle or the handle at 90°?

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5 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

I'd probably be up for one.

 

What weight would you be interested in Brian?

 

I have 10 billets cut up ranging from 1 1/2 lbs to 3 lbs. I'm going to cut 2 more at 3 1/2 lbs. 

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If you go with a short, angled handle, you can go much heavier than you do with a long straight handle.  Takes a bit to learn the movement, but they really move some steel!

I have a 3.5lb of that type, and it's as easy on the arm as a 2lb ordinary hammer.  Just a different movement.

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4 more billets cut up 2 of them will be around 4 lbs end weight. And the 2 on the far left near the horn will become some tooling. A couple hammers on top to show some of the hammers that can be made. It doesn't have to be a Japanese style bladesmiths hammer. Viking, rounding, sledge, engineers....there all fair game.;)

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Hi Jeremy, my 4.5lb is angled. I would want the same on a 2.5 to 3 pounder. Actually I can install my own handle, that can help you. Tai Goo had a hammer with a curved angular handle and I copied this on another one I use.

Puts the impact /hand control closer to the action. I use a 3lb for most everything. I have been looking for a square face and I think 2.5 - 3lbs would give me the force I think I want.

Gary LT

Edited by Gary LT
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I have one of Jeremy’s 3Ib dog head hammers, it’s very quickly become my favorite hammer. It feels great to swing and it definitely moves very quickly. 

Very good quality I would say :D

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1 hour ago, Gary LT said:

Tai Goo had a hammer with a curved angular handle and I copied this on another one I use.

 

I would forge the eye at a cant and the handke would have an angle from the head with a straight handle. Or I can forge the eye straight through like a normal hammer and then you could use the curved angled handle like TaiGoo. Its entirely up to your personal preference.

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  • 1 month later...

I have had a lot of troubles with tooling. Mainly power hammer punches. I got a bar of H13 in the mail yesterday and made a handled punch and today is dedicated to drifts. Once the tooling is made I should be able to make better hammers that I feel comfortable selling. I will get to making these hammers very soon. Thank you guys for your patience.

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First test hammer with the new tooling. The top if the eye has this little defect which I believe came from driving the drift in through the top with the power hammer because of the angle of the eye it drove the drift twords the rear instead of driving it in straight. Today I'm going to make another one but in going to drive the drift through the top by hand.

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So I did a little playing with my design when Alex Middleton came and forged and I made 2 more hammers like the one I made him. Here is the 3 "types" of Japanese bladesmiths hammers.

 

I call these type I

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type II

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type III

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Let me know which ones you guys like and I can make it to that particular style.

Type I and II will have smaller eyes from here on out 

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Hi Jeremy, 

Is type III available in 2.5 to 2.75 pounds? What will the face hardness be?

Cheers!! Nice stuff!!

 

Gary LT

Edited by Gary LT
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Honestly face hardness can be what you want it to be. Me personally like to temper my hammers way back because I love my anvils. I usually temper my personal hammers to about 550°f which yields around 45-48 Rockwell. The hammers I will sell will be tempered at 475°f to get 50-53 Rockwell unless asked for higher or lower hardness.

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