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2020, the year of the slipjoint


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11 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

The way I was taught o do it is to not drill the center pin hole until everything else is done.  Fit it up, mark where the hole will be with everything tight, then drill the hole slightly further down the scale.  Ideally, that pin will slip in when you compress the spine with the knife assembled. 

Time to share.

The way I was taught was to drill the blade pivot and center spring holes in both liners. Assemble the knife with both liners stacked and the blade/spring on top. Put the blade in the open position. Now scribe the line of the bottom edge of the spring. Now move the back end of the spring upward 1/32" away from the line by the back hole in the spring. Clamp in place and drill the hole.

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I was waiting for the 1070 to start with folders, while I had 14C28N used in the first kit, and I have some O1 that would be suitable as well.

I have one more hunting knife to give a handle, ditto for 3 kitchen knives and 4 cleavers, then I'm cleaning my shop a bit and seriously getting into folders, might never make a fixed blade again!

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16 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

I think I'll try Joshua's method next time. B)

The method explained in the fewest number of words B):D

I bought some materials yesterday, I think the liners of the first knife were 1.2mm engravers brass, was a gift from my supplier to try out first.  He doesn't have 1.2mm and I feel the first knife is too heavy, so I got 0.5mm brass and 3mm brass plate for the bolsters.  3mm stainless rod for the pins.

We have a whatsapp group with most of the local makers, at least one group that's not irritating, but I digress.
I've shared some of the folder photos on the group, and one of the guys, a retiree currently on a fishing holiday at the coast (far away from his workshop) made a function wood lock-back folder from wood using his Leatherman.
He in turn inspired me with the lock-back idea, for sure worth a try.  
I suspect I'll cheat and take apart one of my Spydercos, use pin locations and the lock design, change the handle and the blade shape.:ph34r:

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@Brian Dougherty I printed out your design landscape and portrait to get different sizes.
My biggest concern is accurate drilling, so I drill all holes before roughing out the parts.  I noticed your design is missing the 2nd hole on the spring, from the advice above I now understand why, hope I can pull it off.

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2 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

@Brian Dougherty I printed out your design landscape and portrait to get different sizes.
My biggest concern is accurate drilling, so I drill all holes before roughing out the parts.  I noticed your design is missing the 2nd hole on the spring, from the advice above I now understand why, hope I can pull it off.

Hmm, I should have had the hole in the spring, but not in the liners.  If that isn't the case, let me know and I'll correct the drawing.

 

I do as you plan to, and drill the holes first.  However, if you grind a little short of the lines (leave excess material), and adjust in the following order, you'll find that the hole placement isn't beyond what is easily achieved with a drill press.  (That's all I use)

 

  1. Grind the tip of the spring until you get the tip of the blade where you want it with the blade open
  2. Adjust the top of the tang to get the open spring height where it needs to be
  3. Adjust the half-stop flat on the tang to get the same spring height as fully open
  4. Adjust the kick and the closed flat of the tang to get the proper closed angle on the blade.  (The kick and corner of the tang form a  line at this point that is hinted at by the shaded area on my drawing)
  5. Slowly push the line above backwards until the closed height of the spring matches the half-stop and open height. (This gives you a flush spring in all 3 positions)

This is actually the first time I have listed these steps out like that.  I haven't made a folder for a few months, but I think that is what I do.

 

 

 

 

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