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David Pessall

First time knife

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Here's my first knife attempt...since high school.  Have to take pictures of them later. This my first post. Wanted to make a little skinner. Ground from O1 tool steel with claro walnut scales. Not sure what to epoxy with or wood finish.  Not completed as yet as no heat treatment and scales not permanently attached. Waiting for materials for heat treat propane brick forge. Have another  blade ready to grind.

What are the opinions?

 

 

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To be perfectly honest the front of the handle looks a little clumsy

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25 minutes ago, Garry Keown said:

To be perfectly honest the front of the handle looks a little clumsy

 

@David Pessall I agree with Garry on that, it looks a little like you were going for a guard but didn't commit the whole way. I no expert by any shot of the imagination but I would either do away with it or make the inside (handle side) more curved to act as a guard? 

 

Other than that, good work and good on you for just getting it done. 

 

Thanks for sharing. 

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Do you mean something like this (blue line)? It's hard to see in pic but the front of the scales are tapered to 1/2 thickness for about 1/2". 

 

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@David Pessall I would be comfortable having no guard, as you redrew it with the blue line, but @jake cleland redrew it was what I was meaning by curving it in order to create a 'guard' type of situation. 

 

Its all about what the purpose of the knife is. If your planning on using it in a thrusting/stabbing kind of motion then a guard is usually preferred. Something to stop the hand sliding off the handle and onto the blade edge. 

 

Cheers, 

Chris. 

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This is supposed to be a light small game skinning knife. Doubtful if much plunging with it. The rounded part was in my mind...for a little better control between index and middle finger. Straight or with a more pronounced guard would be alright too. This pic shows the small taper on the front of scales.

 

 Thank you again

 

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Edited by David Pessall

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I like Jake's redesign of the front of the handle.  I also noted that the scales don't lay flat at the forward end of the handle.  Maybe some thin liners would help hide the defect or maybe some colored epoxy.  As far as epoxies go, I'd suggest Acraglas, which I believe comes with some black dye, or the West system.  You could get some modelers paint to add color to it.

 

Doug

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And before you do anything, pin the scales together and even up the blade ends.  That has to be even or it will look bad.

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Posted (edited)

Well, finally got back to it. The only thing I have to make that shape is a carbide cutter in a dremel.  This is what it looks like.  Before I go any further. Should I take it to a more defined point? What about slightly rounded? Just a  little.  Going to have to de-magnetize it. 

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Edited by David Pessall

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If you're happy with it I am. B)  Certainly not more rounded.  Ease those corners on the wood and see how it feels in the hand.

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Worked on it some more. I  think that is it. Needs cleaned up with more sanding.  It feels good in my hand. Looks much better. 

Thanks for the advice! 

 

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That looks much better David 

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Demagnetized and epoxy applied. 

 

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Posted (edited)

Thought I had gotten the squeeze out from in front of handle. Guessing more did overnight. Question...what's the best way to remove it now?

 

Thanks again 

 

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Edited by David Pessall

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It's also on this little knife. Made from the left over piece of steel. 

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Carefully, lol.  I will typically use a razor blade and press it straight down along the edge of the scale until you hit the blade.  Most of the time the epoxy will pop right off.  Just be very careful not to scratch the blade.

One thing that'll  help next time is to coat those areas in vaseline while you're gluing it up.  The vaseline helps to keep the epoxy from curing properly and makes the cleanup much easier.

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If you have some brass rod, make a chisel and use that. The brass usually won't scratch the steel. Usually...

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2 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

If you have some brass rod, make a chisel and use that. The brass usually won't scratch the steel. Usually...

I have one that I sharpened like a pencil for  cleaning up solder joints which also works fairly well for epoxy (especially if you catch it while it’s still “green”)

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Acetone, denatured alcohol, both work for me to get the little bits of epoxy left. Takes some elbow grease and works better before it is totally set (my epoxy, G-flex, takes 24 hours to set. I try to catch it at 6-10 hours when it’s still kinda tacky but not going to run anymore).

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Ground pins and a little 400 grit. I didn't catch it in the semi wet phase. I'll have to cut/scrape it off the blade. 

 

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Definitely a few ways better than, the "knife-ish" abomination I made first time. XD
 

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A razor and brass chisel working very well.  Getting excess epoxy off.

 

Thanks again for the help!

 

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It's finished...

 

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