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Jaron Martindale

1065 Skinner

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HELLO! :)

After lurking for a couple months I finally signed myself up and decided to post here!

 

Thought I would start off showing you all a skinner I just completed.

 

It’s 1065 Steel and random “cut-off box” handle material from another maker. :)

 

The Blade Shape comes from listening to my co-workers who hunt talking about what they would like in a skinning knife, and the handle shape is shaped asymmetrically to better fit your hand’s natural shape.

 

I’m here to learn, so Constructive Criticism very very welcome! :)  

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Glad to have you aboard Jaron.

A couple of thing off the bat are the handle intruding over onto the blade. If you want to be able to "pinch up" on the blade then simply tapering the front of the handle for the front inch offers the same ability and still allows for full blade clearance. The tip curve is a bit to severe and could have been better served as with slightly larger radius and it looks like there is tang showing under the handle so that would become a hot spot with prolonged use. Have you done two different sheaths as in the first pic the closure is on the same side to the belt slot and in the second pic it is on the opposite side, or do you have belt slots on both sides.

Not a bad first effort but you need to understand the usage of the knife to better your design. The rest is simple execution and that will get better with every succeeding knife.

Edited by Garry Keown
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Thank You for the feedback!
I’m not a hunter(although I’d like to learn) so the hot-spot fact with the tang didn’t even occur to me! Sheepishly, I admit I did it as a style choice, but it’s good to know it’s not functional.

I did belt loops on both sides. In retrospect I kind of wish I hadn’t or had done a wider Horizontal belt loop so as to beef up the leather around it..I was thinking it’d be nice to have options, but now that I’m eyeballing it I wonder about the  integrity. 

Thank You again, I’ll definitely take it to heart for the next blade! :) 

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I would  have gone with a full flat grind to make the edge more acute; maybe with a convex secondary bevel to make the hide peel away better.  A full flat grind might have gotten rid of some of those forge spots on the blade.  I would really have to hold the knife to check it out but I'm wondering if the scales, and probably the tang, would be more controlable if they were a little wider.

 

The texture of the sheath leather is quite interesting but if it's not vegetable tanned leather you could be looking at some corrosion down the road from the chemicals used to leather.  The belt loop on both sides is not a big no-no.  Someone might want to carry the sheath outside the belt where another might want to carry it inside the belt where another might want to alternate the way they wear it.  The spacing of the thread holes seems a little large to me.  I use the smallest stitching wheel to lay out my holes.  I think that a finer stitch, even though it increases the work that you have to do sewing up the sheath, looks more refined.  And, speaking of stitching, did you glue and sew in a welt between the  two layers of leather?

 

Doug

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Thank You Doug.:)

 

The Leather is Veg-tan as far as I’m aware,  the shop said it was just a weird texture that no-one bought:ph34r:

 

I did not glue the welt in, but I did stitch one in on the edge side.  Definitely still learning how to properly do up leather, so the stitching length was more of a hap-hazard best guess as opposed to style, lol

 

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Welcome to the madness!

Listen to Garry, he's skinned out more critters than many and understands what works.

Doug made very good points too.  I like the leather, looks funky.

 

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Some good looking workmanship, lots of things you will look back on and groan when you have made another couple of dozen!

 

Main thing, functionally, is the protruding bits of handle scale over the blade, they will be very vunerable to chipping off, and they will get in the way for thinning / sharpening!

 

Aesthetically, to my eye, a bit 'stabbier' profile would look sharper, and where the mosaic pins are on the angle transition on one scale looks a bit odd, as does the scale being shy of the underside of the handle! 

 

Keep at it! :)

Edited by John N
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22 minutes ago, John N said:

Main thing, functionally, is the protruding bits of handle scale over the blade, they will be very vunerable to chipping off, and they will get in the way for thinning / sharpening!

Definitely noticed this when sharpening:wacko:

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And Thank You guys for the compliments and feedback!:D This is wonderful!!

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