Is there anything as a hot face that outdoes satanite at the same price(or lower of course), or performs as well at a lower price?

[Alex W. 0]

I would be willing to put in a bit of time in order to produce it myself if I get a good recipe I can trust.  I expect up to 2300F operating temps, and I can fire it up to 3000F if that's how it cures, which is the only time I'd ever exceed 2300F. 

[Wayne Coe 74]

You will be $$$$ ahead if you will use a proven product.  Not only will you get a better product that will probably last longer you will have a more efficient forge.

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com.

Let me know if I can help you.

 

[Doug Lester 400]

A castable refractory like Wayne sells is much more durable in the long run than Satanite.

 

Doug

[Alex W. 0]

6 hours ago, Doug Lester said:

A castable refractory like Wayne sells is much more durable in the long run than Satanite.

 

Doug

I may yet aquire a bag or two of kastolite, which I will need guidance on, but I would like a little information about the way satanite degrades, because I want to know if a solution exists, such as whatever I can think of or find to make satanite stick to the kaowool so it doesn't matter if it cracks, or anything I can add to prevent cracking in the first place if possible.  As I posted above, I'll be operating around 2300F, and i think up to 3000F is in my reach.  

[John N 326]

I use a 1600 deg C rated castable refreactory in my forges, about 1/2" skin, over a couple of inches of wool that acts as insulation. A 20 odd kilo bag of castable is not expensive on ebay, the shipping can be though!

 

You dont want too much castable in a forge though, as its dense, so slows heat up time, but the thermal mass is nice as you dont get so much of a temp drop when you put a workpiece in there. Its getting the balance right for the work you do.

 

My welding forge is a 'melter' if I turn the gas up, you can see steel sweat and drip in there. Its had the same lining for 10 years now. Any cracks in the castable were patched with fire place cement putty in the first few firings, nothing in the following years.

[Alex W. 0]

On 2/21/2020 at 1:50 PM, John N said:

I use a 1600 deg C rated castable refreactory in my forges, about 1/2" skin, over a couple of inches of wool that acts as insulation. A 20 odd kilo bag of castable is not expensive on ebay, the shipping can be though!

 

You dont want too much castable in a forge though, as its dense, so slows heat up time, but the thermal mass is nice as you dont get so much of a temp drop when you put a workpiece in there. Its getting the balance right for the work you do.

 

My welding forge is a 'melter' if I turn the gas up, you can see steel sweat and drip in there. Its had the same lining for 10 years now. Any cracks in the castable were patched with fire place cement putty in the first few firings, nothing in the following years.

I assume you are referring to kastolite 30, but I would like to be sure. But seriously, I really appreciate the input, it's a big help to me.

Edited February 23, 2020 by Alex W.

[Doug Lester 400]

The castable refractory will stand up to flux much better than Satinite.

 

Doug

[John N 326]

On 2/22/2020 at 1:40 AM, Alex W. said:

I assume you are referring to kastolite 30, but I would like to be sure. But seriously, I really appreciate the input, it's a big help to me.

 

Im not familiar with Kastolite products im afraid. The stuff I use is sold on ebay in 20 kg bags as '1600 C castable refractory' - It mixes like dry concrete, and is very dense (like concrete, again!) when it cures.

[Charles dP 584]

Where are you based Alex? Here in the U.K. Vitcas is where I get my refractory material.

[Alex W. 0]

20 hours ago, Charles dP said:

Where are you based Alex? Here in the U.K. Vitcas is where I get my refractory material.

Nevada.