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Mystery project for 2020


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Posted (edited)

I got some pins installed in the hollow cap, and the matching holes in the upper guard.  Now I can hold the knife sideways without the pommel cap falling off :lol:

 

IMG_20200809_203921658.jpg

Edited by Brian Dougherty
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  • 1 month later...

I made a handle core out of some scrap oak I had laying around, and then attempted to cover it with leather.  I've only tried a leather wrap one other time, and this one turned out marginally better, but not great.  I need to develop this skill...

 

IMG_20201004_150527796.jpg

 

IMG_20201004_182551043.jpg

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That's really going to look good when you get it finished.  All of you folks here on the forum just keep raising the bar.

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I haven't seen this post in a while and I have to say I am duly impressed. Way to go man!

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On 4/29/2020 at 9:02 PM, Joshua States said:

 

 

Not to highjack or anything but I have to warn @Robert D.

This is inherently dangerous. 15A breakers require a minimum of 14GA wire. 20A breakers require a minimum of 12GA wire (thicker). Loading a 20A breaker on 14GA wire and attaching a 20A tool is a good way to burn your house down.


I actually moved again, and the place I am now has 20A wired to the garage by default. But thanks for looking out for me, Part of why I love this group so much is that we all look out for each other. 

Back on topic, Brian's blade looks amazing, I am jealous of whoever draws it. 

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Thanks guys.  I don't think this one holds a candle to some of the others, but it's turning out to be pretty unique.

 

I did the final etch on the blade last night.  Turned out about how I wanted...

IMG_20201011_102514813.jpg

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I did a bit of cleanup and patina work on the bronze bits.  I haven't peened anything together yet because I'm not happy with the leather wrap.  I'm thinking of doing something different there.

 

IMG_20201011_172142364_HDR.jpg

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Hi Brian, liking this blade and I’d say achieved what you wanted starting out with. Yeah, the handle needs some three-dimension surface structure either rope - yarn under/over or wire.

Really nice project and enjoying this WIP.

Gary LT

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13 hours ago, Gary LT said:

Yeah, the handle needs some three-dimension surface structure either rope - yarn under/over or wire.

 This is what I am thinking.  I've never tried one of those cool wraps where there is textured cord ribs under the leather.  Trying new things is within the spirit of this project.

 

However, I am leaning toward more of a leather spiral wrap at this point.  I think that might be more fitting the theme of a miniature early(ish) viking(ish) sword.

 

Either way, I think the blue is out.  The color doesn't work with the knife.

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i would slim down the handle, a quick search shows lots of viking sword handles are straighter or tapered so the front is wider and near the pommel is thinner. the handle is a little big looking, which is easy to do with a mini knife or sword because there isnt a long blade to sort of pull the flow of the piece longer if that makes sense. i think the underwrapped risers would look nice on a straighter, slimmer handle. 

 

its looking really cool, those castings came out great.

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I think Steven is on point with the handle idea.  To give it more of a fantasy/iron age feel, a waisted grip would work too.  I've never been a fan of spiral wrapped leather.  But it's not my dagger!  B)

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Thanks for the input guys.  I've got some time, so I think I'll let it sit a bit until I figure out what to do.  I drew a lot of inspiration on the blade and fuller from Pierce and Oakeshott as well as the general shape of the guards.  However most of the artifacts in the books I had didn't have much handle info.  Then there is the scale issue.  This is basically a scaled down sword.  However, I wanted a handle you could actually hold on to, so it is disproportionately long.

 

@Alan Longmire A waisted grip would look pretty cool.  I struggled enough to get the leather wrapped around this barrel shaped core.  Not sure how I would do an hour-glass shape.  I need to dig up some tutorials on this.

 

What kind of leather works well for this sort of thing?  It seems like anything heavier than upholstery leather is going to be too stiff to wrap effectively, but that doesn't feel very satisfying to do. 

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18 minutes ago, Brian Dougherty said:

What kind of leather works well for this sort of thing? 

 

Veg tan 1-oz. calfskin, or 1.5 oz. pigskin, kidskin, etc.  Thin thin thin.  Upholstery leather is too thick and is usually chrome tanned.  Make a paper pattern first, then cut your leather 1/4" oversized.  Skive the edges to nothing so when they overlap there won't be a lump.  If you follow Peter Johnsson's tutorial you won't go wrong.  

 

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Ok, it shows a lot of signs of being a first attempt, but I think it is much better than what I had.

 

This is 1oz goatskin.  I am shocked at how well details (flaws) in the wrapping underneath showed through the leather.  The biggest mistake is that I didn't skive the starting edge of the leather as thin as I did the exposed edge.  As a result, you can see the line of the edge through the surface of the grip.

 

IMG_20201018_094054127.jpg

Edited by Brian Dougherty
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I got the upper guard peened on...

 

IMG_20201018_115510254.jpg

 

And then peened on the pommel cap.  I've got some touch ups to do, and I'll call it done.

IMG_20201018_124113366.jpg

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OK folks, that's a wrap.  (Pun intended)  I'll post a new thread with final pics, and a justification for how this fits with the "Seasons" theme.  In the meantime, I'll leave you with one last pic.

 

Completed Project Post:

https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/41131-haust-gjalda-a-miniature-viking-sword/

 

IMG_7802.jpg

Edited by Brian Dougherty
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