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Jeremy Blohm

Blades of the Oakeshott Typology

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Here is some pictures (crappy pictures) of the sword I'm working on. I will admit that the fuller is off and I'm trying to fix it. I'm grinding it in with the bottom 2 inch idler wheel of my grinder. I can see how a grinder that tips on its side can be very beneficial. Also I might have made the fuller about an inch longer than the oakeshott xiia? I will try to get better photos when I get some more daylight today.

 

33 inch blade

Forged from railroad track (1080?)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oakeshott_typology

 

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Edited by Jeremy Blohm

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Had to modify my quench tank to be able to fit the sword.

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With the heat rises affect can I heat the oil in just the upper chamber for heat treating knives and axes or high carbon hammers?

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21 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

With the heat rises affect can I heat the oil in just the upper chamber for heat treating knives and axes or high carbon hammers?

 

Should be able to.  Not bad on the fuller.  That's why I replaced one of the steel idlers on my grinder with a rubber one.  You get a much better finish.  

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I'm going to have to do that with my grinder!!!

 

Tonight I'm going to heat treat this thing. I'm going to use my little venturi burner in my big forge set vertically. I got it straightened to the best of my abilities and ground as thin as I dare to go.

 

Historically what kind of hilt would a sword like this have? All I'm finding is modern reproductions. What should I look for to get good references?

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Peter Johnsson designs anything made by Albion, so they tend to be good references as far as reproductions go. Other than that, surf around on MyArmoury to get good examples of period examples.

 

Generally speaking, an earlier long/great sword like this will have a simpler, straight guard and some variety of wheel pommel. If I were you, I'd see if bronze or brass pommels were common for this type (can't remember off the top of my head), since they're easier to shape and look great. The grip will generally be of wood wrapped in cord and then leather wrapped around that.

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3 hours ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

Hey Alan would this 3 inch contact wheel work for what I wanna do?

 

https://usaknifemaker.com/wheel-contact-wheel-2-10-1-2-bore-rubber.html

There is a pinned topic in Hot Work that you should read

 

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Thank you Joshua I have looked at that once before but never really sat down to comprehend everything. 

 

Thank you AJ. I will look into brass or bronze but my original plan was some Gnarly wrought iron I have for the fittings. 

 

I backed out of heat treating yesterday because I don't have a way to temper it yet except for the oxy-acetylene torch to do a flash temper. I've been gathering everything I need to build a tempering oven and last night I went to my brothers shop and picked everything up and today I will be assembling it. I will start a topic on that later today. I have it worked out in my head how to go about it but I might need some input from everyone here. In also goimgnto do some modifications to my big propane forge to make it a little safer in the vertical position.

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13 hours ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

Hey Alan would this 3 inch contact wheel work for what I wanna do?

 

https://usaknifemaker.com/wheel-contact-wheel-2-10-1-2-bore-rubber.html

 

In addition to that link Joshua posted, I use a 2" serrated rubber wheel for narrow fullers, and a 6"  for wide ones.  Look at Sunray polyurethane and AMK for cheaper wheels.

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I've been looking at historical examples of all kinds of blades from viking to Arabian and a lot of the fullers aren't perfect. I've seen a sword with a triple fuller on each side of the blade and the two short fullers beside the long central fuller weren't square with each other. I mean not even close. So it makes me feel a little better about my fuller!!!;)

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I got my big forge set to run in the vertical position.

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Looking pretty good, man! 

 

 I would take your time as much as you can before heat treatment to be sure you have the bulk of the work done. It's very hard to get the edges of a blade that long perfect without any wiggles. You might try a sanding block to straighten that fuller out. 

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Indeed. Do all the fuller shaping and finishing pre-HT.  Hockey pucks make great fuller sanding blocks.  

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I have my quartz counter top that had a nice beveled edge that fits the fuller almost perfectly. Think it would work?

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Have to try it to tell I guess. I'll probably just cut a 10" length of 2x4, rip it down to a 2x2.5 (1 1/2×2) or so and grind one of the narrow faces to the same radius as my contact wheel for my sword sanding extravaganza this weekend. That way I can just wrap the paper around the block and hold it in place with the friction of my grip as I run it to and fro. Probably will wear gloves though! I rubbed all the skin off part of my hand like that while using a flat block once. 

 

You might be better of with a 1×_ or something narrow like that. Just something straight that'll fit in there. 

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And I thought I might add, since we're on the topic and you may or may not have something similar: I do all my small fullers like that with a handheld black&decker 3x21" belt sander with lowes ceramic belts and it works phenomenally! I have way more control with that. I just draw lines, and pick up the guard shrouding the small wheel, and apply pressure down and towards me. I haven't finished any of the blades I did that to, but I've done a number of em'. 

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I have a 1x18 hand held belt sander. Cant remember what its called. I looked into getting the "dragster" belt sander just because of the really small wheel.

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What does everyone think about water buffalo horn for the hilt and etched wrought iron for the fittings?

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What hardness should I shoot for with 1080? Assuming it's close to 1080. Would 50rc be too hard?

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I just weighed this thing and it's at 36.4 ounces and I'm glad you guys talked me down on heat treating it. I did a bunch more straightening and I'm draw filing the distal taper in some more and working on the fullers. Thank you guys for the help!!!

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Horn is too slippery for my taste.  Look at Peter Johnsson's leather wrap tutorial, it works well and no sewing is required.

 

50 Rc should be fine. No harder, though.

 

You still need to bring the weight down a bit. Shoot for 30 ounces or less including the hilt parts. The balance when finished should be around 6 to 8 inches ahead of the guard. 

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I snapped it in half over my knee. There was quite a few things I didnt like about it. Fullers were off from one side to the other. Every attempt at fixing it resulted in it getting worse so heat treated it oil tempered and began tress testing it. I even put the tip in the vise ag grabbed the tang gave it a bend and let it go. It flailed about for a few minutes. After heat treatment it came out almost perfectly straight. I think i the oil temper wasnt quite hot enough but the amount of flexing it had before braking was impressive and the grain was quite fine. I'm having a hard time getting a picture of the grain. The camera wants to focus on everything but the grain structure. I will get better pictures later.

 

 

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Screenshot_20200314-130455_Gallery.jpg

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I had to take a picture from a distance and zoom in and screen shot it to get a good enough picture 

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I am going to order a contact wheel for my belt grinder like Alan suggested to replace the plastic OBM idler wheel I used to grind this fuller. I think it will help because the blade seemed to wanna jump around which make it hard to start. Once the fuller was started it wasn't too bad but still irritating none the less.

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