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Zeb Camper

Broadsax WIP

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Posted (edited)

Though I said I would wait until HT, I think it will make it out alive. So, this is about a 24" bladed broadsax of the Norwegian flavor with a spine made of high P wrought, 2 twisted rods of 15n20, and 1080, and a cutting edge of 1080. The colag is in as simple of terms as I could put it, because I sent it to someone who asked me what I do, (the outcome of that; I was supposed to do a demo in May) so I avoided the word "welding" as much as I could. 20191023_124857.jpg20191022_184043.jpg20191021_161128.jpg

...And here it is with an 80 grit rough sand. 20200321_162447.jpg

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Now I need to track down copious amounts of canola oil in the middle of a beer plague. I'm thinking I can brave the dollar store if I keep distance, use my card, and sanitize good. I've done a good job so far dodging the rest of world. 

 

Also, I realized half of my sword quench tank was used to build my power hammer. 

 

To be continued!

Edited by Zeb Camper
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Looking good :)

 

I bet you can get the canola from Amazon :P

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I think that Amazon has restricted deliveries to essential products so I don't know if you can get much from them.  I have a book on pole arms and how they were made on order and I hope it's not sitting on a shelf in some warehouse until these restrictions are over.

 

Doug

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B)  !!!!!

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I settled for a 3 gallon jug of peanut oil. Went to Walmart and I had my buddy with me looking at quarts of canola (he's also living the hermit life). I had him workin the calculator. I said "how many you reckon it'd take?" buddy: 'least 8'. [Woman quickly grabs 2]. So I'm like "Well, hows bout peanut!?"

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According to Kevin Cashin, peanut oil isn't the best for quenching blades, though I've seemed to have done ok with it.

 

Doug

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Thanks, Doug!

 

I'll have to try pre heating and quench a test blade first. I could actually see a slightly slack quench being a bonus. May I ask what your order of operations is for peanut oil?

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Wonderful work Zeb. I know this will be great.

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Zeb, I'm not sure what you mean by order of operation.  I heat the blade until he decalence passes then quench point down in warm peanut oil for at least a seven second count, wipe the excess oil off and cool until it's no more that warm to the hand then take it right to my waiting oven to temper.

 

Doug

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Thanks! I was just wondering if you preheat and treat it more or less as canola. I've heard you can use it, but wasn't sure if it had a huge difference in viscosity. 

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It's a little bit thicker, thus a little bit slower.  With the composition of this blade that shouldn't be a problem, just don't try for hamon on 1095 with it. ;)

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Heat treated just 2 hours ago, and first temper done. Two more tempers, and a bit of straightening in between and it will be a fine sax in the making and the coolest thing I've made I'd say. 

 

Earlier I hiked to some mines gotta sneak a pic in there. 

 

Test blade got heat treated afterwards. Funny how it worked out because I had to quench that one twice, and still got a hamon. (Not visible in pic) I'm leaving it! 

20200328_225103.jpg

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Looks good!  

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20200404_005852.jpg

 

If you look closely, you can see where the hardened steel stops towards the tang. All in all a success. Got the rough polish done half an hour ago. 

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Great stuff Zeb, great success, that’s an awesome pattern and the welds look great. I hope you cracked a beer or two. Well in any case I will have one for you. Look forward to seeing what you do from here.

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Ha!  Nailed it, yataghan curve and all. B). How are you going to hilt it?

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That's looking great Zeb. I too am wondering about the hilt plan.

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57 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Ha!  Nailed it, yataghan curve and all. B). How are you going to hilt it?

Thank ya! 

 

As far as hilting it, I had the blade length for a hilt, but had some questionable pits in the first 2" of blade, and not really enough tang anyway, so I ground two inches of blade away (was 65cm, I estimated the hilted ones at 68) and now I'm in the range of broadsax instead of type III langsax (I think) so, I think it will get a straight(ish) wooden handle. I might try to do some carving or something cool. I'm not sure. Its semi important to me to maintain accuracy, but I'll have some fun with it too!

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Look! That historic chump has wandered from the path! A bird's head and black walnut!? What's next? :o

 

Gonna do the goo. B)20200426_142856.jpg

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Wow Zeb I love that handle shape. Really looking great. Looking very forward to seeing more.

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Posted (edited)

That's awesome Zeb. 

6 hours ago, Zeb Camper said:

What's next? 

I dunno. Maybe some fancy schmansy wood carving? Maybe a wire wrap?

Edited by Joshua States
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Thanks guys! Currently just staring at it. 

 

I dont really know what I'm gonna do... I chickened out on the carving on the broken back long seax I made, so I might try one here. I dont think I have any more silver wire laying around, but I'm gonna go dig for it now. 

 

How do you guys get a perfectly epoxied handle? I fill mine up to the brim, then slowly put the tang in, sort of back and forth to get the bubbles out, but no matter what by the time its cured its sunk down. It's not the best fit, but it was a burn in with like an 8" tang. Should I try JB weld as caulk? 

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This is a beauty Zeb. I am impressed with how well you knocked this one out!, especially with the size and thickness. I have one seax much smaller that I can’t get started carving as I go blank. So I am all eyes to see how you get started carving on this one! 

 

Gary LT

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Zeb Camper said:

How do you guys get a perfectly epoxied handle?

I usually pour some epoxy in, and wait for it to settle a little. A piece of bailing wire is good for getting the air bubbles out. When it's about half-full I insert the tang and remove the excess.

 

A neat trick that Matt P showed me with kitchen knives is to drill a 3/8" inch hole into the handle. Then broach and burn the tang in.

Now take a 3/8" wood dowel and split it in half.

Sand the flat sides down until they are the right size in the hole to fit snugly against the tang. Cut them about 2" long and superglue them into the hole. Cut them flush with the front of the handle. Now use a syringe to inject the epoxy into the hole. You can buy the syringes and  pine and walnut dowels at most Home Depot and woodworking stores. 

 

Edited by Joshua States
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1 hour ago, Zeb Camper said:

Should I try JB weld as caulk?

JB Weld makes a two part epoxy putty called Weld-Wood. I think you can stain it just like wood.

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