Zeb Camper 735 Posted March 21 (edited) Though I said I would wait until HT, I think it will make it out alive. So, this is about a 24" bladed broadsax of the Norwegian flavor with a spine made of high P wrought, 2 twisted rods of 15n20, and 1080, and a cutting edge of 1080. The colag is in as simple of terms as I could put it, because I sent it to someone who asked me what I do, (the outcome of that; I was supposed to do a demo in May) so I avoided the word "welding" as much as I could. ...And here it is with an 80 grit rough sand. Now I need to track down copious amounts of canola oil in the middle of a beer plague. I'm thinking I can brave the dollar store if I keep distance, use my card, and sanitize good. I've done a good job so far dodging the rest of world. Also, I realized half of my sword quench tank was used to build my power hammer. To be continued! Edited March 22 by Zeb Camper 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Dougherty 851 Posted March 23 Looking good I bet you can get the canola from Amazon 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Lester 225 Posted March 23 I think that Amazon has restricted deliveries to essential products so I don't know if you can get much from them. I have a book on pole arms and how they were made on order and I hope it's not sitting on a shelf in some warehouse until these restrictions are over. Doug 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted March 23 I settled for a 3 gallon jug of peanut oil. Went to Walmart and I had my buddy with me looking at quarts of canola (he's also living the hermit life). I had him workin the calculator. I said "how many you reckon it'd take?" buddy: 'least 8'. [Woman quickly grabs 2]. So I'm like "Well, hows bout peanut!?" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Lester 225 Posted March 24 According to Kevin Cashin, peanut oil isn't the best for quenching blades, though I've seemed to have done ok with it. Doug 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted March 24 Thanks, Doug! I'll have to try pre heating and quench a test blade first. I could actually see a slightly slack quench being a bonus. May I ask what your order of operations is for peanut oil? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Toneguzzo 484 Posted March 24 Wonderful work Zeb. I know this will be great. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Lester 225 Posted March 24 Zeb, I'm not sure what you mean by order of operation. I heat the blade until he decalence passes then quench point down in warm peanut oil for at least a seven second count, wipe the excess oil off and cool until it's no more that warm to the hand then take it right to my waiting oven to temper. Doug 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted March 24 Thanks! I was just wondering if you preheat and treat it more or less as canola. I've heard you can use it, but wasn't sure if it had a huge difference in viscosity. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 2,211 Posted March 24 It's a little bit thicker, thus a little bit slower. With the composition of this blade that shouldn't be a problem, just don't try for hamon on 1095 with it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted March 29 Heat treated just 2 hours ago, and first temper done. Two more tempers, and a bit of straightening in between and it will be a fine sax in the making and the coolest thing I've made I'd say. Earlier I hiked to some mines gotta sneak a pic in there. Test blade got heat treated afterwards. Funny how it worked out because I had to quench that one twice, and still got a hamon. (Not visible in pic) I'm leaving it! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted April 4 If you look closely, you can see where the hardened steel stops towards the tang. All in all a success. Got the rough polish done half an hour ago. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Toneguzzo 484 Posted April 4 Great stuff Zeb, great success, that’s an awesome pattern and the welds look great. I hope you cracked a beer or two. Well in any case I will have one for you. Look forward to seeing what you do from here. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 2,211 Posted April 4 Ha! Nailed it, yataghan curve and all. . How are you going to hilt it? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,344 Posted April 4 That's looking great Zeb. I too am wondering about the hilt plan. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted April 4 57 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said: Ha! Nailed it, yataghan curve and all. . How are you going to hilt it? Thank ya! As far as hilting it, I had the blade length for a hilt, but had some questionable pits in the first 2" of blade, and not really enough tang anyway, so I ground two inches of blade away (was 65cm, I estimated the hilted ones at 68) and now I'm in the range of broadsax instead of type III langsax (I think) so, I think it will get a straight(ish) wooden handle. I might try to do some carving or something cool. I'm not sure. Its semi important to me to maintain accuracy, but I'll have some fun with it too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted April 26 Look! That historic chump has wandered from the path! A bird's head and black walnut!? What's next? Gonna do the goo. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Toneguzzo 484 Posted April 26 Wow Zeb I love that handle shape. Really looking great. Looking very forward to seeing more. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,344 Posted April 27 (edited) That's awesome Zeb. 6 hours ago, Zeb Camper said: What's next? I dunno. Maybe some fancy schmansy wood carving? Maybe a wire wrap? Edited April 27 by Joshua States 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zeb Camper 735 Posted April 27 Thanks guys! Currently just staring at it. I dont really know what I'm gonna do... I chickened out on the carving on the broken back long seax I made, so I might try one here. I dont think I have any more silver wire laying around, but I'm gonna go dig for it now. How do you guys get a perfectly epoxied handle? I fill mine up to the brim, then slowly put the tang in, sort of back and forth to get the bubbles out, but no matter what by the time its cured its sunk down. It's not the best fit, but it was a burn in with like an 8" tang. Should I try JB weld as caulk? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary LT 55 Posted April 27 This is a beauty Zeb. I am impressed with how well you knocked this one out!, especially with the size and thickness. I have one seax much smaller that I can’t get started carving as I go blank. So I am all eyes to see how you get started carving on this one! Gary LT 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,344 Posted April 27 (edited) 1 hour ago, Zeb Camper said: How do you guys get a perfectly epoxied handle? I usually pour some epoxy in, and wait for it to settle a little. A piece of bailing wire is good for getting the air bubbles out. When it's about half-full I insert the tang and remove the excess. A neat trick that Matt P showed me with kitchen knives is to drill a 3/8" inch hole into the handle. Then broach and burn the tang in. Now take a 3/8" wood dowel and split it in half. Sand the flat sides down until they are the right size in the hole to fit snugly against the tang. Cut them about 2" long and superglue them into the hole. Cut them flush with the front of the handle. Now use a syringe to inject the epoxy into the hole. You can buy the syringes and pine and walnut dowels at most Home Depot and woodworking stores. Edited April 27 by Joshua States 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 1,344 Posted April 27 1 hour ago, Zeb Camper said: Should I try JB weld as caulk? JB Weld makes a two part epoxy putty called Weld-Wood. I think you can stain it just like wood. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
