WIP First try at a multi-bar Anglo-Saxon sword

[Andrew W]

I've never made a sword before or done any pattern welding, so this is me feeling my way in the dark. I'm having fun!

 

I went with a simple 2-bar herringbone core. The core bars are 7 layers (1084 and 15N20). For the edges, I built a 7-layer stack alternating wrought, 15N20, wrought, and 1084 (etc).

 

Welded up my core bars...

 

 

 

Twisted them with my buddy's torch...

 

 

And then moved and forgot about this project for 12 months

So now that I'm shut in on quarantine--

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll grind it tomorrow and see how the welds look. They all seemed solid while I was forging the profile so...we shall see.

As a bonus, I ended up with about 12" of extra herringbone bar. I made way more than I needed! Bonus seax?

My goal for this blade is an early Anglo-Saxon style: fullerless (double-lenticular profile), 70cm long x 4.5cm wide blade, and a 12cm tang. I forged in a subtle distal taper, and the dynamics feel about right. Still too heavy at 2.5lb, but I assume I'll knock a lot of that off when I grind the surface and finish the bevels?

 

I've got an old army surplus ammo tube and 6 gallons of canola oil, so once I finish the rough grinding I'll need to get up my courage enough to harden it.

[Rob Toneguzzo]

You have got this far wonderfully, I get the feeling you have the eye of the tiger....I am certain there is no stopping you now. Looks really great. Best of luck on the quench.

[Zeb Camper]

Good to see the still shots here!

 

I would get everything ground/filed and even block sanded to 80 grit before heat treatment. Try and get that weight somewhere between 1 1/2 to 2lbs if you can. You should be able to get that much from grinding. 

Check everything for straightness before you grind (and during)! Look down the edge, but also hold the blade out in front of you and line the edge up to its center mass at the tang end, then pan your eyes to the tip to look for twists (make sense?). You'll want to make a wooden twisting jig as you'll likely need it after hardening too.

Best of luck! I'm anxious to see it done! 

 

[Alan Longmire]

Looking good so far!  That lenticular grind is harder than you'd think.  Take your time at it.  And drawfile.  That will help keep it even, and is slow enough that you can correct any mistakes that appear before it's too late.  

[Dan Hertzson]

8 hours ago, Andrew W said:

The core bars are 7 layers (1084 and 15N20). For the edges, I built a 7-layer stack alternating wrought, 15N20, wrought, and 1084 (etc).

 

I'm confused.  Do you have this backwards (edge vs core)?  Why would you want any wrought in your edge?

 

Welds and rough forging look great!

Edited April 3, 2020 by Dan Hertzson

[Andrew W]

1 hour ago, Dan Hertzson said:

 

I'm confused.  Do you have this backwards (edge vs core)?  Why would you want any wrought in your edge?

 

Welds and rough forging look great!

The edge bars are a stack like this (apologies for the ugly sketch). This sort of composite edge is common in early medieval swords. The wrought I used etches up with some wild textures, so I'm hoping this will look fun when it's finished.

Edited April 3, 2020 by Andrew W

[Alan Longmire]

Looks like you've got a copy of or have seen the diagrams from Tylecote and Gilmour 1986... 

[Andrew W]

Indeed! Brian's been so helpful over the years--we've mostly chatted about spears (what I studied in grad school), so I've enjoyed going back to the swords and reading all the parts I'd skimmed before.

[Dan Hertzson]

Got it, a kind of wrought Go-Mai for the edges.  I bet it looks awesome when complete.