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Conner Michaux

Best forging I’ve done so far

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I started this blacksmiths knife from a little piece of old file. Took me about 45 minutes to draw out into a thinner longer piece, then another hour to forge into the blade shape, I attempted to forge in the bevels on this one. The edge is thinner than the spine so I think it worked.  It doesn’t look like much, but I think this is the best forged work I’ve ever done. This evening I have to finish drawing out the tang and Been it into a handle. It also has a very nice looking taper down the spine. Just from looking at the forged piece is there any critique you can give? 

 

For this knife I drew inspiration from some of the blacksmith knives in Owen bush’s website.

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You need a shwacker. A wooden club a out the size of a maul handle cut in half. You set the blade on the anvil on its spine and edge in the air and shwack that curve out of it. The handle needs to taper to a dimes thickness at the end and flare out at the end as well. If you need to cut material off that's cool.

 

Looking good, man! 

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An old little league baseball bat makes a good shwacker or as I also have done a piece of

hardwood pallet 2x4 works great too and usually can be had for free ................;)

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Since he mentioned Owen's smith knives, I suspect that curve is deliberate. ;)  

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I want a little bit of curve in the blade, but not where it currently is. I will try to fix it with a tree branch tonight.   

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Posted (edited)

Tonight I finished cleaning up the shape and forging the bevels. After  that I quickly ground the edge all even and smooth. Then I did the hard part of bending the tang into a handle. It went quite well. :D 

after than I shut off the forge and let the blade cool down slowly. 

 

EDIT: here are some better pictures it’s a little bit small for my hands, by I think I did pretty dang good. 

 

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Edited by Conner Michaux
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Looks nice to me!

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Looking good Connor.  That'll make a good little skinner when you're done with it.

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I'll say you did pretty dang good!  B)

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Wow!  That's a great job.

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Thanks! One question though, the end of the scroll is very very thin, and there is no way I will be able to harden the blade without dipping the scroll into the oil. And because it’s so thin it will probably crack. How should I address this issue?

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Quench vertically, stopping with the scroll right at the surface.  Hold until the red fades, then all the way in.

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If you're not planning on hardening the whole tang, you could bend it out a bit before hardening,  and then bend it back in place after you temper

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29 minutes ago, Alex Middleton said:

If you're not planning on hardening the whole tang, you could bend it out a bit before hardening,  and then bend it back in place after you temper

Or this...

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Thanks for the help :)

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I’m going to heat treat it before I grind the bevels, I started them a little bit just so I have a reference point to start from. I was able to work the scroll into a place that isn’t going to be touched by the oil. 

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Looks great Conner

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Heat treat went well, its currently in the temper at 400 degrees. Here are some pics pre heat treat, i clean up the spine to make it flow better with the rest of the blade.thumbnail-2.jpgthumbnail-3.jpg

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