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Hammer in portfolio WIP


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Here are a couple glam shots. I'll be honest, it's grow on me a little and it makes me feel a lot better that you guys think the handle is alright. Thank you for all the help with this knife.

So I finally got back to my shop for the winter and picked this project back up. I put a new handle on the seax knife because I really hated the last one and couldn't bring myself to scrap the blade.

Here are a few finished pictures for this thread. 

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I've been working on the EDC and the drop point from this thread, in between my Christmas orders. They are heat treated and tempered.

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Some progress. I chose redwood burl and katalox for the EDC handle. The full tang will have acrylic scales. 

This full tang damascus kinda threw me for a loop when I realized I am gonna have to finish the scales before I glue them up. It throws a new challenge in the works. We will see if I can pull it off on the first try.

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59 minutes ago, Faye said:

It throws a new challenge in the works. We will see if I can pull it off on the first try.

What I do in this situation is use some corby bolts that I ground down and re-sawed screwdriver slots that sit below the surface of the scales.  That way I can attach the scales, shape, and sand them on the tang, remove them, etch then re-attach.  All that you have to do to finish is cut and file/grind/sand them flush.  It helps if you leave a little extra meat on the scales and finish the sides after glue up.  Just be sure all the parts that touch the blade are finished before glue-up.

I hope that makes sense...good luck.

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I do something very similar to what Billy does. I just use pins that I drive out with a small punch after getting the scales shaped on the knife. I will finish the profile of the handle and front of the scales to absolute final sanding. Then take the outer surfaces to about 320 grit before removing the pins, and etching the blade. Once the etch and clean up is done, reassemble with glue. All that is left to do is light sanding on the surfaces of the scales.

 

BTW- That little one looks great. Just make sure you have the front  face of the guard finished and buffed before gluing that handle on.

Edited by Joshua States
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There is only two pins holding the scales on. Think three might be better?

I was thinking I would put a dab of super glue on the pins and shape the handle, then I could knock them out and etch.

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12 hours ago, Faye said:

I was thinking I would put a dab of super glue on the pins and shape the handle, then I could knock them out and etch.

I'd be afraid that the glue won't hold up and think the possibility of a scale popping off at the grinder is too great. Now if you're doing everything slowly by hand, that might be a different story....

Edited by billyO
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On 12/21/2020 at 9:24 PM, Faye said:

There is only two pins holding the scales on. Think three might be better?

On a full tang, I always use 3 pins, unless the handle is really short, like on a 3-finger model. Generally speaking, I put a pin no more than 1/2" from the front and rear ends, no less than 3/16" measured to the center of the pin. The third pin goes dead center between those two.

That's just my rule of thumb. Others may have different opinions.

Edited by Joshua States
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Well I was cruising right along tonight on the full tang and then I went to tap the pins out and take the scales off... It did not go quite to plan. Back to square one without the pretty scales.

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The full tang got new scales cut and fitted today, and the EDC got some finishing touches and glam shots.

The EDC came out with a 2 3/8" blade, 4" handle, 6 3/8" overall. 

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6 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

I'm diggin' that deep etch on the EDC

That was a happy accident. I might have gotten distracted and forgot it was in the etchant for an hour or two.

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Well, third times the charm right?

I glued the full tang up and thought I had pretty good success. Unfortunately the liners shifted and now I have grooves between wood and tang in places. Not to mention that I didn't have it clamped well enough and one scale poped off at the back of the tang. 

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Options:

1. Heat it up with a propane torch and peel them off.

2. Grind them mostly off and burn the rest off.

3. Try mixing some sawdust with glue and packing it in, lightly scrape off with a piece of stiff wood or plastic while it's still a little wet.

4. Up the price $100 and sell it as is.

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I was gonna take a hammer and chisel to it, but a torch sounds a bit less destructive.

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Yes a torch to heat the pinstock and punch the pins and the heat travel will kill the epoxy. If you want to try and save it first then can you sand some of the same liner material and mix it with epoxy to fill the gap and polish it to see what it looks like before the  move to replace the handles.

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I did a little fiddling with it tonight, filled in some gaps and polished it up. Didn't quite get enough sawdust in the glue, so the gaps are still black but sealed off. I'm still not a hundred percent convinced it's ok to let go, but I really want it off my bench too. I am going to leave it alone for a while and see what I think in a couple of weeks.

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1 hour ago, Faye said:

I am going to leave it alone for a while and see what I think in a couple of weeks.

 

A fine plan. I do the same thing quite frequently........

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  • 5 weeks later...

So I took this knife with me to a damascus clinic and asked for advice on it. I got a bit of everything, but the ultimate advice I got was to make sure I was happy with it before I sold it.

With that in mind I totally changed directions. It is now a hidden tang with copper, acrylic, and birdseye maple.

I don't do this handle shape very much so any thoughts or critics on it are welcomed.   

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That is a very nice shape with nice flowing lines. I like it. Well done Faye.

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It looks like a good attempt at the iconic bird head handle. I would say there is a little too much belly and not enough bird head, but that is my opinion based on what I like.

 

The bird head is an icon in knife handles because the shape puts a lot of the control in the pinky finger. Most folks don't even realize how much the pinky affects the user's control over a working knife, but it is really what pushes the point down while the wrist turns. To make that really work well, the pinky needs a well defined pocket to rest in and push against without sliding off the back end.

 

I was recently working on a similar knife. After I got the handle all shaped, I put the blade on it and it did not look right. So I took a roll of blue painter's tape and started to stick pieces to it and redesign the shape of the profile.

 

Rework idea V2.jpg

 

Play around with this idea a little before you take it back to the grinder. See if developing less in certain areas pleases you more.

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