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9 hours ago, Joshua States said:

I was recently working on a similar knife. After I got the handle all shaped, I put the blade on it and it did not look right. So I took a roll of blue painter's tape and started to stick pieces to it and redesign the shape of the profile.

Dang Joshua, that's twice this week you have blown my mind with a great tip... 

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Here are a couple glam shots. I'll be honest, it's grow on me a little and it makes me feel a lot better that you guys think the handle is alright. Thank you for all the help with this knife.

So I finally got back to my shop for the winter and picked this project back up. I put a new handle on the seax knife because I really hated the last one and couldn't bring myself to scrap the blade.

Here are a few finished pictures for this thread. 

Posted Images

22 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Most folks don't even realize how much the pinky affects the user's control over a working knife

I remember a website of a fellow knifemaker/hand surgeon who talked about ergonomics and grip design.  I can try to dig it up if you'd like, Faye.

Or anyone else, I guess.....;)

Found it:  http://versteegblades.com/knife-handle-design/

Edited by billyO
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On 2/10/2021 at 8:30 PM, Joshua States said:

I would say there is a little too much belly and not enough bird head, but that is my opinion based on what I like.

Thats kind of what I was thinking. 

So I drew some guide lines and took it back to the grinder. It looked really good untill I got cruising on the grinder and took out to much belly. But I'm ready to be done with this knife. It has a sheath and is ready to leave my life. 

20210211_183830.jpg

Edited by Faye
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9 minutes ago, Faye said:

I got cruising on the grinder and took out to much belly.

Actually, I think that looks much much better. Just a subtle swell and a defined bird beak. That looks very handy.

 

13 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

Dang Joshua, that's twice this week you have blown my mind with a great tip... 

Hmm. What was the first one?

 

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14 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

 

Hmm. What was the first one?

 

The bit about filling in squaring dies with shims to reduce their size.

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49 minutes ago, Faye said:

It has a sheath and is ready to leaving my life. 

I really like the handle composition.  

I apologize for being a little late with my suggestion, but perhaps it'll be useful in the future.  The thing I would have done a little different would have been to give the handle a little more of a 'coke bottle' profile looking from the top.  The lines look a little too straight to me.

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10 hours ago, billyO said:

I remember a website of a fellow knifemaker/hand surgeon who talked about ergonomics and grip design

That is a really cool artical, thank you for finding that. 

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Here are a couple glam shots. I'll be honest, it's grow on me a little and it makes me feel a lot better that you guys think the handle is alright. Thank you for all the help with this knife.

20210213_093031.jpg

20210213_092932_HDR.jpg

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Its only taken me over a year, but the last knife in this thread is the fighter. I have a billet of Persian ribbon with a twisted border that I intend to make this knife. My goal with this knife is to create something eyecatching and diffrent from my normal stuff.

I tweeked the handle design a smidge and tried to eliminate any long straight lines. The handle length, not including the guard, is 5". The blade is 5 1/4", and the guard is 1/4". 

20210213_190238.jpg

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Questions:

Are you planning on beveling the clip?

Is that a single large spacer? (I assume this is a hidden tang construction)

I like the design. It has nice lines and flow. I think you will find 1/4" is too fat for the guard. The slanted plunge looks off to me and would be better either straight or if left slated, match the slant on the back of the spacer.

I'm anxious to see this one progress.

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I hadn't thought about beveling the clip, but it might look classy if I did.

I haven't decided what to do with the spacer yet. The handle is going to be dessert ironwood, and the guard can be twist damascus, brass, or copper. The spacer is just there for now, as I have no idea what it's gonna be made of.

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If I can be so bold as to suggest something, it would be to add some curves to the guard.   While I don't make fighters, I've always thought that flat guards look 'off' and (to me) always ruin otherwise good looking blades. 

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I don't mind the flat oval or pointed oval guard, but I think it would flow better if the bottom of the guard didn't drop below the edge.  Asymmetry is fine, but it still has to flow.  Plus putting an S-curve on a thick guard is a real pain. Thin ones too, it's really hard to get a smooth curve without a sharp bend in the middle.

 

Sorry you asked yet? :lol: 

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7 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

it's really hard to get a smooth curve without a sharp bend in the middle

I learned a trick for that from a French smith named Jean Louis Regel.

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11 hours ago, Joshua States said:

I learned a trick for that from a French smith named Jean Louis Regel.

Is that a "French Curve" joke?

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1 hour ago, Brian Dougherty said:

Is that a "French Curve" joke?

Nope. Jean-louis Regel (@jeanlouisregel1) • Instagram photos and videos

and his partner: Veronique Laurent (@veroniquelaurent3) • Instagram photos and videos

 

 

Edited by Joshua States
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So I tweaked a few things on the design, trying to create more flow to the guard/handle junction, and came up with this.20210226_164811.jpg

 

I hope to get started on this in the next two weeks. Here is a sneak peak at the steel I made for this project.

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I really like that design. Nice proportions and lines. The ricasso may be a little long front to back, but that is a matter of taste. It still looks "right". Nice looking steel too. 3 bars? Smokin'.

If I might make a suggestion, it would be to photocopy that drawing and add the tang to the copy. Then cut the blade/tang out and superglue it to a piece of 1/8" flat bar. Now grind the profile out on the flat bar.

Not only do you have a template to lay on the steel and mark out where the blade goes, you also have a template to remake that same blade shape again with a different piece of steel and another handle. Start keeping these templates in a handy location. Now you can use that template as a guide to make the same blade out of mono-steel at the anvil.

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12 hours ago, Joshua States said:

3 bars?

Yes. The core is w's, and the edges are half of a 32 layer twist. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took the leap today. I started by cutting a fish mouth in the billet and welding it closed so that the borders meet at the tip. This is the first weld I have ever attempted without supervision of someone who knows what they're doing. I didn't use any kerosene, only flux. 

I'm happy it actually stuck together a bit, but the weld is still visible from both sides, etched or not. I can't feel any gaps anywhere, but it does get a smidge cloudy towards the inside. Am I just really nervous about my welding abilities, or do I need to start over? 

20210315_125916.jpg

20210315_125909.jpg

20210315_125837.jpg

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That's just the decarb line.  Cook it in a reducing forge atmosphere for a fee minutes and it'll fade.  And congrats! B)

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Yes, what Alan said. A fish mouth is basically a two-bar weld, and multi-bar welding has the unpleasant aftereffect of a white line at the weld joint. Normalize a time or two and it should disappear. The time at temp allows for carbon migration across the weld seam.

 

Congratulations are definitely in order. Well done!

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Thank you guys. That totally made my day. 

This morning I finished forging the blade out. I did make a steel template for this one and it was very helpful. The blade is still a bit oversized, especially the ricasso, but untill my forging gets better my moto is 'it's easier to take it away than put it back'

20210316_123817_HDR.jpg

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5 hours ago, Faye said:

This morning I finished forging the blade out.

Looks great!  Is someone else getting addicted to pattern welding???B)

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