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I am looking to upgrade my HF ASO to a real anvil. I am looking at the Kanca 110lb double horn . Also the Scott 105  taper and a TFS 110lb double horn. Any recommendations from this list? Any other anvils I should consider. Thank you for any and all replies.

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I was saving my money for the TFS 100lb Double Horn when I found a real deal on a Fisher that I couldn't pass up.  Don't know anything about the Scott.  I think the Kanca and TFS are just about the same quality anvils.  Don't think you could go wrong with either one of those.

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The Kanca has a slight edge by having more mass under the face and by being steel rather than ductile iron, but the TFS is a good anvil.  You won't go wrong with either. 

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Also cast ductile iron, but decent quality.  Mass under the face is the main thing to look for. A small anvil with a blocky body is usually more efficient than a larger one with a narrow waist.

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Thanks Alan, So the double horn anvils look like they would have more mass under the face. London pattern anvils look like they have slimier waist and thinner under the heel and thicker horns. so for equal weight I should look at a Continental pattern?

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Emerson claims their anvils are 4140. They are about an hour away from me. If I had known they existed before I ordered a diff anvil early on, I would have probably snagged one of theirs.

 

Edit: I guess I should add that if I were buying one to use for bladesmithing, I might not get one due to the weight distribution on them. I'd totally agree with Alan, look for something with the bulk under where you're gonna be hammering.

 

I'm sure they are fine anvils though.

Edited by Cody Killgore
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Thanks guys! I guess with my budget being anvils in the 100lb  range. The Kanca  being steel and with the most mass under the face should be my first choice. 

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2 minutes ago, Brian Myers said:

Question...do you actually need the horn? If you're doing blade-smithing alone check this one out.  http://www.atlasknife.com/product/atlas-anvil/

out of stock. I do use the horn on my ASO now. the shape helps me when drawing and thinning metal out. maybe it's my poor technique to use the horn?

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No not at all! If that is the way you've found to make things work, then do it! Don't ever let anybody tell you its not right. I've seen smiths use the side of the anvil to make bevels, the step and yes the horn. Each one works the best way they can!

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Thick waist is best.  I once got to forge on a ca. 1790 anvil with virtually no waist.  It weighed around 97 lb, but felt as good and solid as my 220 lb.

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If you can hold out until around the 20th of June you might give the Atlas knifemakers anvil another look.  It has different radius' on the edges.  The front edge appears to have a large radius that will do the same thing as a round horn, also known as a bick, that can be used to draw out a bar of steel or help put an upward curve in the blade.  Another thing is that they have a 3/4" hardy hole that could hold a bick tool or a guillotine tool that will do the same thing for you.

 

Doug

 

Oops!  I just read your last post.  I hope you enjoy your Kanca.  It will serve you well.  For anyone else, consider the Atlas for the reasons that I've stated.  I haven't used a horn for knife making in ages.  The main reason that I want the Atlas is for the hardy hole to use my hardy tools with.

Edited by Doug Lester
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Yeah Doug, I was looking at the Atlas. I just couldn't hold out till they had more. I was able to get a great price on the Kanca from Centaur forge. They were the lowest and had the cheapest shipping and right now they have a code for new customers of 10%!!!  

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