Having issues getting the flame right on my burner setup

[Alan Powell 0]

I’ve been having some issues getting the flame right on my burner, my set up is essentially a 20 psi regulator to flare fittings into a ball valve which is then leading to a coupler held in by set screws, which has a cap drilled and tapped to hold a mig tip (0.025mm) I’ve turned everything all the way and the flame is still red and bellowing like crazy more than I’m comfortable with. Not sure what to do to get m blue flame to be able to control it within the forge. Any help would be much appreciated!

[Jerrod Miller 361]

Looks to me like you are not getting any (or at least not nearly enough) air mixed in with the gas.  

[Jeremy Blohm 461]

The bell reducer on the end should be a step up not down in size. Also the bell reducer is not needed once it gets in the forge. The reducer on the end is disrupting the venturi effect is my guess. 

Can we get some more detailed pictures of the whole set up?

[Alan Powell 0]

Basically the coupler is inside of the bell reducer at the top of the iron pipe, and is then held in with set screws the coupler holds a cap and I drilled and tapped that cap and threaded in a 0.025mm mig tip.

[Alan Longmire 2,250]

You're not getting nearly enough air.  That kind of burner needs a large, like 2" to 3/4", bell reducer on that end, and none on the other, with no obstructions on the large end.  When direct end injection was popular most designs used a 1/4" pipe across the big end of the reducer.   Where did you find the plans for this?  There are lots of better and cheaper venturi burner designs out there.  And here, for that matter.  

[Alan Powell 0]

Of course a video on YouTube haha I wasn’t a massive fan of the burner plans to begin with but figured since they worked for him and the comments had other people who it worked for I’d give it a shot. I’m not understanding what you’re saying though. 

19 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

You're not getting nearly enough air.  That kind of burner needs a large, like 2" to 3/4", bell reducer on that end, and none on the other, with no obstructions on the large end.  When direct end injection was popular most designs used a 1/4" pipe across the big end of the reducer.   Where did you find the plans for this?  There are lots of better and cheaper venturi burner designs out there.  And here, for that matter.  

 

[Cody Killgore 43]

I don't have much experience with venturi as I run blown burners. That said, the thing that stands out to me is there is very little space for air to enter in between where your orifice is and the bell reducer. You've effectively choked the burner way down where it can't pull in enough air.

[Alan Longmire 2,250]

Sorry, the 1/4" pipe goes transversely across the wide end, and has a 0.035" hole drilled to act as the jet.  There's a very good reason that design is no longer popular. The Ward Reducing Tee design works really well, and you can buy the kit for $45 from https://www.hightemptools.com/burners.html, or even better, you can get a completed Black Beauty from Jock over at Anvilfire for $50.  https://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/products/P-75/  Dead nuts simple, and cheaper than parts and labor for building your own.  

 

 

 

[Doug Lester 233]

Looking at you pictures of the burner assembly I instantly started wondering where your air inlet was.  I'm not seeing where it was getting any air.  Alan's idea of going to High  Temperature Tools and Refractory and get the whole outfit that has what you need to go from the propane tank to the forge.  If you have a hot shop that has an electrical supply I'd recommend that you go to a blown forge.

 

Doug