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Well, here's the final product. I know two things that I need to work on (forging more to finished shape, distal taper). Would appreciate any suggestions to make the next on better.

 

Specifics of the knife again are: 

192 layers random 15N20 / 80CrV2

7 inches from tip to front of riches

7/64" thick at ricasso

~1.75 " wide at heel

Handle is "Gerhard micarta", brass spacer, patagonian rosewood

 

And as always, thank you for your time.

 

A special thanks to Gerhard for the idea of the wrap micarta. Really good stuff. Made a second block just to test to destruction. Has a tang slot and everything. 10 good whacks with a 16 oz ball peen hammer on an anvil and not even a chip. Haven't destroyed it yet... 

 

 

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Looks nice!

 

Hard to critique without giving it a test run - proof of pudding is how well it cuts, everything else is quite subjective.

 

It is really the 'thickness behind the edge' that has the biggest effect on how a chefs knife cuts. I grind & stone the bevels on my chefs knives pretty thin before sharpening (so the edge is say 0.004" - 0.006") - its a funny one, as a 0.012" edge can seem thin before sharpening, but its triple the thickness of a 0.004" edge !

 

Like you say it does not have much distal taper (thin tip is important on a chefs knife for 'swishing' through onions etc), and to my eye there is quite a lot of handle there for a kitchen knife. Looks great and well sculpted for a 'Stab Grip' , but how does it feel in hand for other grips, like 'pinch gripping' which is used a lot.

 

The other thing that I have found to be very important on kitchen / chefs knives is 'board clearance' for your knuckles when chopping etc. You don't want to be working with your knuckles over the edge of the board all the time, which you do if there is not enough clearance. It might be the angle of the photos, but it looks like your knife would be a bit tight for clearance. If so kicking the angle of the handle up a couple of degrees, relative to the back 2/3rds of the cutting edge would make it much easier to use.

 

My knives tend to be all in a more traditional Japanese style, which is very minimalist. I dont have much experience making 'western' type chefs knives so my ramblings might be off the mark for this knife though!

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  • 1 month later...

Looks great Bill, I dare say you executed my idea better than I can, very happy to share considering everything I get back hereB)
 

What kind of wool (or material?) did you use?

 

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This was my second attempt at this process. The first time I tried it, I wrapped on the knife. When I took it off, there were gaps (because of the tape) that I just couldn't satisfactorily get rid of. So I made a second but this time I used a thin piece of wood as the space holder. Once it was cured, I removed the wood and then fit it like any other bolster material. It was just WAY easier to do than metal :). Was able to get a nice tight fit. 

 

The material I used was a 60% wool, 40% silk multi-colored yarn. The pictures don't show it well but when you see it live, there is a very subtle color variegation that I found really cool. The buyer did also. Would never have been able to do this any other way - thus the special thanks. 

 

Using the wood preform idea, I went and made a bunch of different blanks (before the open bottles of epoxy resin went bad) that I can now use on different knives. I made them really long so I can cut a slice off as big as I need. Allows me to use it as spacer material too. 

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I used my messy method for a knife I'm busy with due to the guard/bolster going slightly onto the blade......BUT, for chef knives with a simple tang I'll be using your version of my method :lol:

Thank you for sharing that in return B)

 

I used the brushed mohair wool simply because, believe it or not that is the only real wool I can find in this town, the rest are all poly-something-or-other :angry:

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Gerhard, don't knock the poly-stuff. I made up some using 100% polyester yarn, and I think it is tougher and more abuse resistant than the wool-silk blend I used. The interesting thing is while the natural fiber gave a bit of texture even when finished to 600 grit, the poly stuff was smooth as glass. Different textures/ looks/ utility for different knives. 

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Well Bill, thank you again, will do!
I've used synthetic material to make micarta (G10?) before, some good results, some bad, the resin seems to melt the material somewhat.

 

I could definitely do with a wider choice in colours.

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