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Conner Michaux

first attempt at a Yakut blade

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Posted (edited)

I HT my Yakut knife tonight and as expected it got a decent sized warp, luckily its not a ruffles potato chip warp, but instead a smooth curve. Im thinking of using shims in the temper but Im not sure of the placement of the shims. Sorry for the horrible pictures, my hands shake so the camera doesn't focus. 

 

Also, what is the estimated rockwell hardness of an old Nicholson file? No matter how hard i pushed into the blade the file skated. So im assuming its pretty dang hard.

I think I may be getting somewhat good at this stuff, I still can't see decalescence but the second I see recalescence I put it back in the forge for 2-3 seconds to regain that previous heat and then quench.

 

 

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Edited by Conner Michaux

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Looking good Connor!  I would recommend that you do 1 temper cycle as is before you try to correct the warp.  Otherwise you risk snapping the blade as you counterbend it.  I'd start with 1 or 2 pennies placed at the highest point of the curve, and then clamp the ends to a piece of angle iron or some other backer that will stay straight as you clamp.  Temper for an hour or so and then check it.  If it doesn't come back all the way straight, add another penny and go again.

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Yes. Do a temper first. I snapped the first blade that warped. Lesson learned.

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2 hours ago, Randy Griffin said:

Yes. Do a temper first. I snapped the first blade that warped. Lesson learned.

I'll second that....(for those of you in need of further convincing, review https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/32964-what-did-you-do-in-your-shop-today/&do=findComment&comment=404046

 

If you're planning on doing multiple tempers anyway, then you might want to try just clamping straight without shims for the second cycle.  This works sometimes without the need to over -correct with shims.

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Thanks! I did temper it right after quench for about an hour and a half at 395. I’ll the penny thing today. 

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Conner, at what point did the blade warp? When you quenched or while bringing it up to heat?

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1 hour ago, Randy Griffin said:

Conner, at what point did the blade warp? When you quenched or while bringing it up to heat?

I normalize and heat treat at night without any light whatsoever so I couldn’t tell you, but I suspect it happened during the quench because of the fuller in the blade. After 4 or 5 half hour tempering/straightening cycles I was able to correct about 85% of it I decided that’s the best I’m going  to get it. but it’s hard to tell because the spine is still brute de forge and therefor it has various small marks. Even though it’s not perfectly straight I think it will still be totally fine. 

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Other than the slight warp that’s left, this blade is going quite well. I’ve got the edge to an equal thickness on the stones. The only stone I have is a 400 grit and it’s not very flat so it’s kind of annoying to work on it. The convex bevel side is at 600 grit, I will have to go and sand it some more because it’s gotten a bit scratched up from the stone. I still have plenty of work left to do on the fuller side but I’m going to wait till I’ve got the handle started. 

Again, sorry for the awful pictures 

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I forged out a second yakut tonight, Im trying out a different way to forge the fuller and it looks really nice, and more like historical examples. They are cooling down in the forge right now so I will get pics tomorrow.

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Handle material is here, Its a block of black ash burl, Its got a warp in it which is kind of concerning because I don't really know how to work around it. I can't grind it out because that will leave too little material to drill the tang hole. I think I will be alright though.

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Posted (edited)

three things I would consider.

Have you planned the length of the blade on the block to see how much of the curve there will actually be in the finished handle?

Have you thought about cutting it at about bolster length (5/8" to 3/4 ") and adding a contrasting spacer which will allow you to take all or at least 90 -95% of the curve out at the cut end.

what shape is the handle going to be as in, will it have flared or tapered butt and if tapered then aim the tang toward the right point on the top of the curve side and then you can bring the underside of the curve up to meet symetrically with the top side with the palm swell in the middle.

Edited by Garry Keown

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Sorry I completely forgot to respond to ya. 

 

I just finished shaping the handle using nothing but a surface grinder. The handle is super comfy and looks really great. 

 

Bad quality image unfortunately..

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