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Conner Michaux

Finished hunter/skinner

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This was my first commission for a friend.

W2, and walnut crotch with denim liners.

I did a little bit of experimenting with grey scotch brite, Super awesome results. Gives it a nice milky high grit satin look. I think this one turned out really well.

 

What do ya think? If you have any critique please do tell.

 

Thanks for looking :)

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I find it beautiful.  I wonder though if you went less into a shouldered plunge line and blended it into a soft arc if it would suit the overall design better.  My mind tends to wander off...

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Looking good Connor.  Reminds me a lot of my Schrade Old Timer that I've carried out hunting with me for the last 20 years.

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44 minutes ago, Oberu said:

I find it beautiful.  I wonder though if you went less into a shouldered plunge line and blended it into a soft arc if it would suit the overall design better.  My mind tends to wander off...

 

Thanks! I agree that would look better, I need to remember to radius the corner of my files more so I get smoother plunges.

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A bit of cleaning up to do yet Conner?

 

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I run into that same problem.  Have tried using tape as a preventative.  Also Vaseline.  End up scaping and then tedius re-sanding, etc.  Is there a more learned way to prevent that?  If so, I've not found it.

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37 minutes ago, Chris Christenberry said:

I run into that same problem.  Have tried using tape as a preventative.  Also Vaseline.  End up scaping and then tedius re-sanding, etc.  Is there a more learned way to prevent that?  If so, I've not found it.

If you are using epoxy, run a q-tip dipped in acetone along the joint before the epoxy cures to wipe off the excess.

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After I took the pictures I noticed there was a bit of squeeze out left, I have no acetone but rubbing alcohol softens it enough to pick it off with a pin.

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23 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

If you are using epoxy, run a q-tip dipped in acetone along the joint before the epoxy cures to wipe off the excess.

 

Well dang, I never figured it had that simple a solution.  I feel kind of dumb for not realizing that, but guess we all have to learn some things the hard way.  Thanks a million.  I imagine many of you are aware of the time I've spent trying to clean all that up after the epoxy set. 

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A new X-Acto blade has worked in the past for me when having to remove bits of cured epoxy.  If you're careful enough you can cut through just the epoxy and it just peels off everything else.  

On 7/27/2020 at 7:27 AM, Brian Dougherty said:

If you are using epoxy, run a q-tip dipped in acetone along the joint before the epoxy cures to wipe off the excess.

be careful here, because too much acetone and too vigorous rubbing can rub out more epoxy than necessary, leading to a small gap under the scale.  Not really an issue when pieces fit together really well, but I've noticed this with my damascus blades on occasion.  I tend to etch deep enough to be able to feel some topography, however, so this wouldn't be an issue with a shallower etch.  

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A dry q tip for the first few cleaning passes and only when the majority of it has been wiped away do you need to use the acetone to clean the residue off. 

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I'll try and keep all that in mind guys, thanks.

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Posted (edited)

I think it was Alan who suggested this in a previous thread about Epoxy clean-up, but a Non-ferrous “blade”/scraper worked wonders for me to clean up squeeze-out on the front and back of scales! Being copper or brass it won’t mar or scratch the steel surface and if care is taken it won’t damage the scale either:D

*EDIT- this is for AFTER the epoxy has dried...do not recommend while still wet:blink: use the acetone thing for that:ph34r:

I really like this shape BTW! Awesome work!!!

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Edited by Jaron Martindale
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