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Asking for Vertical bandsaw advice, recommendations!


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Gents, I am asking for some help advice on buying a vertical bandsaw and your experiences. I can settle for a portable if I can rig its stationary upright.

Money is tight as always. I made all the belt and disk grinders I use. Like yourselves, built my own forges and ribbon burners. And I like drawing out by forging even though it’s more heats in most cases. I am tired using my hacksaw or angle grinder for cutting a section of steel, hardware, and other sundries. My scroll saw (gift) helps a little on some woods and bone.

Cheaper models (Ryobi, Jet, Harbor Frieght) all state wood, some may have 2 speeds. 

Thanks in advance, 

Gary LT

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The standard Chinese metal cutting bandsaw works great.  I've had mine (Grizzly version) since 1991 and still going strong.  Think the Harbor Freight version is the same except for paint color. 

 

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-4-x-6-3-4-HP-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0622

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

Edited by HSJackson
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Thanks!! This is a good start....... I was thinking along these lines

CENTRAL MACHINERY 

model 

1/3 HP 9 In. Benchtop Band Saw

(557)Write a Review

Make fast, precise cuts through stock up to 9 in. wide with this compact band saw

$149

 

59DD21C6-B26F-40D0-9D4C-6912D9AB9590.jpeg

Edited by Gary LT
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That's a wood-only unit.  They don't make a dedicated vertical bandsaw for steel that costs a reasonable amount.  

Those 4x6 ones HS mentioned do the job if you buy good blades (which cost half as much as the saw), but I suggest a portable one, aka portaband.  You can rig those for vertical use and they aren't too expensive.  And they don't take up as much space as the floor models.

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@Alan Longmire, thanks! And as I can also look at used portable bandsaws. Any recommendations for throat width/size, rpms, teeth per inch to cover most applications which I am thinking all hardware I use , (brass, N/S, wrought, micarta) and of course blade steels up to 1/4”.

Really appreciated !

Gary LT

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Mine has a 4" throat, which is small but workable for most things.  I have to get creative with railroad track, but most other stuff in knife sizes is fine.

Use blades with a pitch thatkeeps at least two tweth, preferably three. In contact with the material being cut.  Fine teeth cut slower, but coarse teeth shear off on thin stock.  I ruined a brand new 10 tpi blade by cutting 15n20. Stripped the teeth right off, and it wasn't even hardened. 

Nonferrous metals (except titanium), micarta, bone, and wood are no problem. Wrought is tough on saw blades. The slag dulls them quickly if you aren't using bimetal or carbide tooth blades.

I like Lennox Diemaster blades, but Starrett makes good ones as well.  

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I kept looking on Craigslist and Offer up and found a greenlee 4x6 65 inch vert/horizontal I use bi metal blades (6 months and going) from Amazon there like 25 bucks. I also have a 14 inch wood/ metal saw, but just use that for wood the 93 inch blades are a bit pricey. Check out this Vintage craftsman bench top bandsaw. Ill give the industrial cart with it 100 for $80 on OfferUp https://offerup.com/item/detail/894595777/

 

Edited by Gilbert McCann
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I'm in a location that has/had big industries and lots of fab shops and machine shops that sell off a lot of equipment at auctions. Most of what I have came from an auction. I have eyed many of band saws but always seem to find something I need more or finances are tight. Eventually the right deal will fall in my lap or I will get a portaband.

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my portaband cant cut lengths more than 5-6" and its really really annoying, it would have been an absolute deal breaker if i knew that were the case before i got it, i had a different one that i used all the time but i dont have a reason to use the one i have now too much. ill just put up with cutting preforms using an angle grinder. 

 

ive got one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-64194.html a 5" cut is useless to me and i make miniatures if that tells you anything about this machine.

 

my older portaband had the blade set at an angle so you could do longer work, like how you might have the dies on a powerhammer angled so that your work doesnt get stopped by the vertical part of the hammer frame. 

 

if you can find one that allows for a deep cut then they are absolutely worth it, you could cut out a blade blank in five minutes with pretty good accuracy. 

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Great answers and advice y’all and Alan thank you for you answers to some of the detail specifics. 

Portaband is where I’ll go.

Right now got one watching on eBay with free shipping. I am sure I’ll find more.

My best, 

Gary LT

Edited by Gary LT
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A few years back, I bought a Delta Rockwell 14" saw off of Craigs list for $50.  It was priced like that since it needed repair which turned out to be more involved than I thought but I'm still happy with it.  It is both a wood cutting and metal cutting and has a multiple speed transmission to achieve that.  I see working ones every now and then for sale at $300 to $700 as well.  Deals are out there if you keep looking.  A couple of months ago I saw a Doall saw (larger serious industrial quality) that needed repair on Craigs list for free!

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I also bought up a HF portaband a few years back as a "starter" saw.  I quickly changed out the throat plate for a big piece of plate with an angle iron welded on to one side.  In this way it works in a vise as a vertical saw. Its tough to beat with cutting soft steel, it's biggest advantage to me is less sparks and dust.

 

The disadvantages of it, you get what you pay for basically, it does the job but is not as well built as others on the market. And I do experience blade drift with it. Other brands out there are offering a small table attachment that bolts into the saw which is better than taking the time to make one up yourself. I've used several other brands of these saws, and each experienced some kind of drift in cutting. But that may have been due to the blades in them, Although most upright band saws experience some kind of blade drift. 

 

If you expect a lot of use with it, take a look at what's out there.

Edited by Daniel W
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