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This is my least productive year thus far, I hope to salvage it to some extent during the few days leave between xmas and new year.

 

There's one option I that would allow me to get a few items done relatively quickly, I've even had it requested, but I'm not convinced so I would like to run it past the crowd.....

 

The steel is 5mm (.196") thick and 90mm (3.54") wide O1.

I've marked out a few cleavers of various lengths, obviously on the smaller side but looking good.

 

Here's my problem, if I do a hollow grind on these I can have then done real quick, but would that be a compromised design?  Would it affect performance? 

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Are they for vegetables or meat and bone?  Bone  needs a thick edge, veges thin. What's   the intended purpose.   The few cleavers I  made were thin and flat  ground.  Works great, but they stay away from bone  most of the time...

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31 minutes ago, Bruno said:

Are they for vegetables or meat and bone?  Bone  needs a thick edge, veges thin. What's   the intended purpose.   The few cleavers I  made were thin and flat  ground.  Works great, but they stay away from bone  most of the time...

That can only be answered by somebody who buys one after I make them :lol:

The ones I marked out are not huge IIRC 160mm and 200mm edge length, so I doubt they will see heavy duty use.

 

I'm also worried 5mm might be too thick for the application.

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My suggestion, FWIW, is to leave them mostly as-is and grind the last 13-15mm convex to a sharp edge. That will handle everything you throw it at.

Fast & effective.

 

Or, flat grind half the width and roll the last 13-15 mm convex.

Edited by Joshua States
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With my "student" in the shop I didn't get to these on Saturday, and Sunday inspiration struck.....

I restored my grandfather's old cleaver, he used it to break down sheep carcasses and cut corrugated iron sheets helped along with a hammer, he was a builder.

 

I could fit two of these and two different designs of my own on the steel, and I will copy the grind on the original for all of them......
 

Quote

Or, flat grind half the width and roll the last 13-15 mm convex.

:D
Won't be done in time for the shows but will be right & proper.

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14 hours ago, billyO said:

pics???

I've been really bad about that recently....time to come clean.....can't remember my new password so I'll have to reset in order to log in on the forum from my home PC from where I can upload pics :wacko:

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Personally I would put a good acorn-type grind on them. If I know people, someone will sooner or later try to cut through a cow leg with one lol. But, either way, a convex grind like Joshua said would work best. It'll hold a good edge, and be really tough.

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2 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

sharing is caring:D

hmmm....which way should I go with this....:rolleyes:

 

 

 

....probably best to just lave it be, then.;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Post-HT grinding done to 40 grit.
Two copies of my grandfather's cleaver, no idea what to call the other two.
I'm scared the edge is too thin on the cleavers, and maybe not thin enough on the one that might be considered a Serbian....

IMG_20201208_142108[1].jpg

IMG_20201208_142347[1].jpg

IMG_20201208_142238[1].jpg

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I have an ongoing issue with my belt grinder when finishing with higher grit belts.....but let's not get into that again.

 

After some more grinding I have to admit I've made life very difficult for myself, can't get a reasonable finish on the machine and no way am I hand sanding hardened O1 from 100 grit to 400 grit.
Problem is with my process, if I'd never touched the flats I wouldn't have this problem and the end result would arguably be more pleasing.

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Gerhard, can you get rhynowet sanding paper over there? It is about 4 (or more) times faster than the big box store brand. I’ve only used the standard but apparently the redline is even better.

Edited by Charles dP
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Hi Charles
Not many choices this side, I've noticed busted grinder 220 and 400 grit belts perform better than my shop rolls of sanding paper, same grits.
They are almost finished and I can get Pherd, imagine that should perform better.

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I've had an idea for the handles of these cleavers, everybody wants wood, I want Micarta so I don't have to worry.....

So my plan is rolled Hessian micarta in a few colours with inlays og wood in the middle of each scale, like red Hessian with Rosewood, blue with Teak, natural with Wild Olive etc.

 

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