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Pattern welded, Snakewood handle Knife


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Here is a 68 layer ladder pattern I made from 15N20, 1084, and 52100. Started as 17 layers that I cut into 4 pieces and re-stacked. Handle is Snakewood with 5/16" mosaic pins I made. Blade is 7" long and about 13" overall length, and about 1 5/8" wide. I ground the fuller with a 1" wheel. I used blue liner material between the tang and scales, but apparently didn't get a picture of that.. Blade is around 60 HRC. I did a double taper for the edge. It is flat ground. Hope you like it.

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Edited by Paul Carter
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4 hours ago, Garry Keown said:

For me there are a lot of questions starting with "why" on this one

I can answer that without knowing your questions. Because I like unique and different. I don't like making knives the same as everyone else. I like quirky and curves.

With that said, I am here to learn, so please tell me what you like and dislike about it, and what you feel I might have done wrong or could have done different so I can file that away in my memory banks for future designs. Thanks!

1 hour ago, Chadd S. said:

I'm not normally a huge fan of ladder pattern damascus but I've got to say your's looks great, especially with the fuller there.

Thanks you! I really like how it came out myself.

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4 hours ago, Paul Carter said:

I can answer that without knowing your questions. Because I like unique and different. I don't like making knives the same as everyone else. I like quirky and curves.

With that said, I am here to learn, so please tell me what you like and dislike about it, and what you feel I might have done wrong or could have done different so I can file that away in my memory banks for future designs. Thanks!

.

you have answered the question of the big swoopy curves on both the blade and the handle because you like them so I expect the same applies to the pin angle and also the makeup of the pinstock themselves with the 3 pins outside the star. 

The big belly indicates a skinning or flaying blade so another question was why you would have a sharpened?? clip point on such a blade when a drop point would be more practical although if it is not a skinner then that question is not relevant

Edited by Garry Keown
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The clip point is not sharpened. I usually do not sharpen them. It's just tapered down for easier stabbing.

As far as the pin angle goes, that is an idea I had while trying to fall asleep one night.  I've never seen it done before so I thought I'd try it. I figure with the pins at an angle, it's impossible for the handle scales to come off without pulling the pins. Not that that is a problem. I just thought it would give an interesting look with pins that have an oval appearance, and not being across from each other on each side. I did these at a 45° angle, but if I do it again, I will try a softer angle like 30°, that way the spread on the other side isn't as far.

The copper pins  outside the star were supposed to resemble starbursts when ground into an oval, but that didn't work out as I envisioned it in my head. Also, the pins were assembled from each side. That way, the copper pins are facing inwards on one side, and outwards on the other. This is my first attempt at mosaic pins. I made this knife for myself so I didn't have any rules to follow. I just made a knife I would like, that's all.

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