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Knife that didn't fit the order and the one that does


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Hey all! Here's an 8" chefs knife that didn't quite fit the order. To begin with, I've been so excited about using stainless that I forgot the order was for a chef's knife in 1084.

 

I hammered this one out of the last piece of AEB-L that I had in the shop. It wasn't quite enough to forge the blade I wanted to make, but I continued on with the process. I got all the way to the point where I was ready to drill tang hike in the handle block. That's when I realized my mistake. I set it on the back burner while I forged a replacement blade this morning that left me with plenty of material to make the knife that was requested of me.

 

After forging the replacement, I figured I'd go ahead and put a handle on. I chose a piece of figured mango I had sitting around for well over a decade and a piece of black and white buffalo horn.

 

PXL_20201206_041526990_copy_1612x1209.jpg

 

Like the title says, I'm adding pictures of the 1084 blade I would have made to begin with. I started with a piece of 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 8".

 

PXL_20201205_141937130_copy_1612x1209.jpg

 

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I started with a solid shoulder, upset it to ensure I have mass to fill out the entire edge.

 

PXL_20201205_155049111_copy_1612x2149.jpg

 

There were a bunch of steps I should have taken pictures of, but didn't, sadly. Here's the rough forging before anything else is done.

 

PXL_20201205_164711935_copy_1612x1209.jpg

 

Here's the rough ground blade is with a cut out of the handle i put on the other handle 

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That is some real nice forging and a very clean kitchen knife.

How is it to forge Aeb-l? I've been meaning to work with stainless in the future, but is still want to forge my knives instead of stock removal

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Thanks! I try my best to forge as well as I can before I have to grind it all down. I probably could have put another shoulder in where the radius is, but I didn't want to spend too much time on it.

 

AEB-L is definitely tougher than the 1084 I'm used to. On the first few, I ended up with a fish mouth. I don't know if it wasn't hot enough or I wasn't hitting it hard enough, so I made a habit of chopping it at a 45 when I cut the bar.

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So I got the replacement rough ground and heat treated! It's successfully hardened to 65+ HRC. After the oven cools down below 300F I'll run it through a couple temper cycles.

 

I got a picture mid recalescence during a normalization cycle and a couple post hardening. 

 

PXL_20201210_001521099_copy_1612x2149.jpg

 

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Here's a bonus picture of a small pattern welded blade I hear treated at the same time. I love how the pattern shows up in the oxides.

PXL_20201210_010830985_copy_1612x1209.jpg

Edited by Bob Ouellette
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3 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Nice work Bob!

There's a lot of interesting stuff on the work bench in those photos too........

 

Thanks! I'm not a very clean person :lol: there's a rusty razor and a deba I'm working on...

 

2 hours ago, Rob Toneguzzo said:

Wonderful blades Bob. I really like the kitchen knife blade. Look forward to seeing it finished.

 

Thanks Rob! It's in the oven right now running through a temper cycle. Hopefully I can get it polished up and finished before Christmas.

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31 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

What's that tool with what almost looks like a d-20 for a head?

 

That's a D-20 on a stick.

 

Seriously though, it's a finial.  You see them on colonial firedogs.  Oddly enough, I'd never made the connection.  My inner nerd is happy. :lol:

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1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

 

That's a D-20 on a stick.

 

Seriously though, it's a finial.  You see them on colonial firedogs.  Oddly enough, I'd never made the connection.  My inner nerd is happy. :lol:

 

It's only a D-14 on a stick, Alan.

 

For real, though, it's a collar made from 3/8x1 wrapped around and forge welded to 1/2 square. It was a forging exercise from when I was going to school around 2007. I have a few pieces like that floating around the house.

Edited by Bob Ouellette
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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's another update!

 

I cut the slot in the buffalo horn bolster with a jeweler's saw. Not the most fun by itself, but my blade snapped on the down stroke and I put the broken end of the thick blade through my fingernail.

 

So after cutting and filing the hole to fit the tang, I drilled out and slotted my block of dyed maple burl. It had a nice, snug, tap it on with a light hammer fit, do I decided to drill the rivet hole. After drilling, I fit the copper rivet and tapped it into place. Everything was tight, so I decided to forego epoxy and just leave it with the mechanical connection.  The handle was shaped and polished and ask that remains is for it to be sharpened.

 

PXL_20201220_062940919_copy_1612x1209.jpg

 

PXL_20201220_064225258_copy_1612x1209.jpg

 

PXL_20201220_065943067_copy_1612x1209.jpg

 

Edited by Bob Ouellette
A word
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5 hours ago, Bob Ouellette said:

tattooed tapped out into place.

I have not been able to decipher what this means.

 

The knife looks great Bob.

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Thanks guys!

 

Joshua, I think my brain was shutting down for the night and didn't want to proof read. I'm using my phone and sometimes extra words sneak their way in. I fixed it in the post.

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That is really nice, I like the hook (birds head) at the end of the handle.

 

I can symphatise with the jewelers saw accident, I've done the same thing once myself. I've also found out that those tiny saw blades will cut surprisingly deep when you slip off the material with one.:wacko:

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1 minute ago, Pieter-Paul Derks said:

That is really nice, I like the hook (birds head) at the end of the handle.

 

I can symphatise with the jewelers saw accident, I've done the same thing once myself. I've also found out that those tiny saw blades will cut surprisingly deep when you slip off the material with one.:wacko:

 

Thanks! I like trying new things with handle shapes. I think the birds head works well with European style blades.

 

As for the jeweler's saw, I'm going to avoid trying to cut through such thick material. I'm certain that played a part in it.

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1 hour ago, Pieter-Paul Derks said:

I've also found out that those tiny saw blades will cut surprisingly deep when you slip

 

Oh, yes they do!  I've punctured deep into my thumb once or twice, but my left forefinger has a network of thin scars from breaking through the 24 ga. silver I use for inlays.  A 3/0 blade is like a mean little laser.  

 

I like that handle shape too.  

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3 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

 

Oh, yes they do!  I've punctured deep into my thumb once or twice, but my left forefinger has a network of thin scars from breaking through the 24 ga. silver I use for inlays.  A 3/0 blade is like a mean little laser.  

 

I like that handle shape too.  

 

Nothing has ever made me want to avoid inlay more :lol:

 

If this knife was for me, I'd make the handle a bit shorter, but who knows what the end user would find most comfortable.

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