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Single Edged Viking age Sword/long sax fuller help


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Hi guys I'm currently trying to make my first sword/long sax a 530mm long (not including the tang) pattern welded viking age single edged sword/long sax. And I need some help to decide what to do with the fullering. First I was going to have a spine of wrought iron but forgot to add it. So because I forgot to add it the fuller is going to have both the pattern welding and the wrought from the middle of the blade. So what I`m wondering is if that would look odd? And having never done a fuller is it easier to grind it out now or after grinding the profile. Or should I even add a fuller and instead go for a full flat grind like on a seax? Would that be historically accurate for a sword/long sax like this?



The blade has a spine made out of 1095 and 15n20 20 layer twist and the edge is 1095 sandwiched between wrought iron.

Edited by EricAndersson
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  • EricAndersson changed the title to Single Edged Viking age Sword/long sax fuller help
  • 1 year later...

I’m not too familiar with doing fullers yet but I have been playing around with them lately. I know I’m very late to respond to this but hopefully my limited experience can help. I’ve found personally that grinding the flat profile first to establish the shape and lines helps and then grind in a shallow fuller. Leave it fairly thick and very shallow before heat treat to avoid warping though. Made that mistake and it’s nit a fun one. Still learning on this process but hope it helps. And I don’t think the patterns on the spine would look weird in a fuller. I think it depends on what wheel you use for the fuller. 

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It's rather short to be a Viking age single edged sword. But it is a good match for earlier period longseaxes. You could go for a type 4 longseax (Jorgensen's Nordic sax typology) with double fuller. You'd need to change the profile of the tip a bit for a good match. 


Unfortunately with regards to patternwelding I have very little info on earlier nordic longsaxes. I know the Viking period ones were patternwelded, but when patternwelding was introduced I wouldn't know. However, it would look great if you would apply the double fuller at the location of the torsion bars. Usually with longsaxes of other regions, the patternwelding would be applied within the fullers. 


Jeroen Zuiderwijk

Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/barbarianmetalworking

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Follow Jeroen's advice on profile and typology.



On 1/20/2021 at 6:43 AM, EricAndersson said:

And having never done a fuller is it easier to grind it out now or after grinding the profile.

I'm no expert on the form, but my memory is these are fairly narrow fullers. My own experience has been to grind fullers in after full profile and HT. I have done this with a rotary tool and a little guide I rigged up. You can see the technique here on page 2.

Edited by Joshua States

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  





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