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New project in the works


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I have an order for an Heirloom project, so I'm doing a bit of R&D that I wanted to share.  I'm tooling up to make a mosaic damascus dagger.  I haven't made any damascus of any kind in a year or so, so I'm a little rusty.

 

I had a billet that I had intended to tile, I took that and added some 15n20 and 1084 filler pieces.  This was the first weld.

 

IMG_2228 (Medium).JPG

 

I then brought that down to 1/2" square by 45 inches long.

 

Then I cut it into 9 pieces and stacked those and rewelded and brought that down to 1.25" x 6

 

Dam1.jpg

 

I'm thinking that I will steal a trick from a member here and do tiles in a can to weld this into a bar.  I'm trying to avoid distorting the tip too much.

I'm pretty pleased so far

 

Geoff

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made some progress .  I needed to build some tooling (better squaring dies and some other stuff) so I spent a couple of days doing that.  Then I used the new die to bring this down to 1.250.  Then today I cut them into squares.  I still need to make some triangles  and then the can, but things are progressing.. 

 

tiles.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Geoff Keyes
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Thanks Gary, it's based on your process.  Fingers crossed.

Today I had to put the surface grinder back together, surface all of the pieces and then cut triangles.  Next I need to make the can.  Every step of this is new ground.

 

Ready.jpg

 

 

Admin, can we move this to the WIP folder?

 

Geoff

Edited by Geoff Keyes
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You mean Hot Work?  We don't really have a dedicated WIP folder.  I'll put it wherever you want, just let me know.  I'm diggin' the process.

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Hot work is fine.  

I want to thank Gary Mukey for sharing this process in previous posts.  I'm certain I would never have thought of it otherwise.  

 

Here is my plan, going forward.  I'm going to build a vblock for one end out of carbon steel.  That will cradle that end and weld to it (I hope!) do that I can use that for the tang.  On the other end I plan to do the same thing, except that piece will be coated in a release agent and will NOT weld to the stack.  My end hope is to have a billet that is already pointed so that I can do a minimal amount of forging that distorts the pattern.

Several years ago I went to one of Josh Smith's hammerins and saw a demo by Owen Wood where he used a similar process to build a chevron pattern core for a billet.

Wish me luck

 

G

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Looking good Geoff.  What you are describing should work fine.  However, the distal v-block is probably not necessary if your can/canoe is the right length.  I did a billet recently where I used steel powder to hold things tight at the tang end, but left the diamond at the tip unsupported, and it welded up just fine.

 

The only thing I would add is to start welding at the tip.  I had an issue with the can failing on the first billet I did solo after taking Gary's class last year.  I made the can out of fairly light sheet metal, and it came apart pretty early in the welding process.  The tip on that one was also unsupported, and I didn't quite have time to get it completely welded before the can opened up.  Ended up having to grind quite  a bit away.

 

As you say, it allows for forging the tip with minimal distortion.

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I tried to get the pieces welded. While not a complete disaster, not really a success either. The process got away from me a bit. You can see some deep cracks. Still it sort of worked, I can get a blade out of the good section (I think) and I've got some "scrap" for a can-'O-scraps and some jewelry. I need to get a better etch to photograph how the pattern turned out

150053778_4323764447638473_6719470894902200336_o.jpg

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  • 6 months later...

Just to keep this rolling, I remade the billet, differently of course.  I ended up with a X shape in thick 1084 and "W" filling the corners.  This thing is massive, which is part of the problem.

 

I cut everything and surfaced it 

 

IMG_20210817_131001071.jpg

 

Then I tried to spot weld it, which was not as pretty, but I did manage to straighten it up a bit and then I put it back on the surface grinder and took off most of the welds.  I didn't get a pic of that stage

IMG_20210817_135037844.jpg

 

Then I got it in the can, which I also don't have pics of and took a nice long heat on it.  The welding wen't well, but the can welded up on one half of the billet, so there was a bunch of grinding to get it off, then I bumped it a little wider and here I am.
 

 

thumbnail_original-b4d3742e-23f9-4f6a-b454-c037e72102e2.jpg

 

I don't know where my pattern is right now, so I'm going to go a little long on the main billet (the chalk outline is what I'm after) and still have enough for a side knife.

This project had really stretched my skills.  I'm probably not making any money on this one, but I'm learning a ton.

 

G

BTW, can you weld on a mag chuck?  I don't want the current from the welder to fry something, but it would have made lining up the bits pretty simple.

 

g

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2 hours ago, Geoff Keyes said:

BTW, can you weld on a mag chuck?  I don't want the current from the welder to fry something

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you ground out your part, so the current doesn't even go through the magnet.  

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The magnet might and or probably will efect the weld puddle at least it has when i have welded near a holding magnet

Edited by dragoncutlery
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2 hours ago, dragoncutlery said:

The magnet might and or probably will efect the weld puddle at least it jas when i jave welded near a holding magnet

Yeah, but he's just tack welding, so not overly critical.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

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