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Canister damascus release agent


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I have experienced first hand the ability of liquid paper to prevent welds. Business cards also worked like a charm. :lol:

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  • 4 weeks later...

There was a guy on FIF that just used a paper towel and it worked fine. Like Jerrod said, any non-metalic, or non-weldable barrier will work. I also use tissue paper wrapped around my mokume billets (inside a Stainless steel foil envelope) to do the same thing. The liquids are just easier to apply and use.

Edited by Joshua States
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If anyone cares, the Kilz white acrylic primer also does work as stated.

Paint the inside.

 

8 Canoe Empty.jpg

 

Fill with your choice of materials

 

8 canoe filled.jpg

 

Weld shut, weld the can, and hot cut the end and one seam.

 

9 Hot cut box.jpg

 

 

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That peeled off beautifully.... I bought titanuim dioxide at 16% when I have a chance to make a cannister I'll let you know how it comes out! 

 

But yours is master level. Haha 

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The guy onh FiF who used a paper towel was Ashe Cravenock.  You may have noticed a wide load and beard also on that episode (takes small bow).

 

Geoff

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Why doesn't the white out work when it isn't dry. It seems like it would still make a layer of ash and would keep the billet from welding to the can.

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In my case 8t hasn't worked at all. I've given it up to three layers and nothing. I don't know if my can is too thin. Or too thick or maybe I'm doing something wrong but it's not working. 

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44 minutes ago, Paul Checa said:

maybe I'm doing something wrong but it's not working. 

Are you talking about using paper towel, or canisters in general?

How thick is the can stock?  I've found that 1/8" (3mm) is on the thin side and 1/4"(6mm) a bit on the thick side.  The 2 times I've used 3mm, the can burst open during the second heat and I wasn't able to compress the can significantly to avoid cracks when forging out the billet.  The 2 times I used 6mm, the can was a lot harder to remove, but the billets were flaw free.  I've used 3/16" (4.5mm) for one can so far and that seems to me to be just about right.  

One thing I learned from one of the forums (it might have been this one) is the importance of using at least 3/4" (20mm) thick stock for the end/cap pieces of the can toe help with compression on the longitudinal axis during forging.  

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In my experience, not letting the whiteout dry makes a sticky mess with whatever powder you're using and the other pieces in the can.  I doesn't coat the can walls, so your billet sticks to the can, and it does coat the billet pieces, so you get poor welds on the perimeter.

In the FiF episode (season 5, episode 25, if you want to see what happend) Ashe tried whiteout, didn't let it dry, and then tried to start his billet (time crunch issues).  He began to realize that it wasn't going to work, dumped everything, and put a layer of paper shop towel over the whiteout, then stacked his can.  The judges were all saying that he was done.  When the time came, he cut the ends off, split the can up one side and the billet slid out like it was greased.

I had the same problem and my solution was to just let the can weld to the billet and to make sure that I ground through the mild steel for the edge.  That worked as well.

I would like to make a canister with the plan to leave the can and incorporate that as part of the design.  If you cut and stack a couple of times (so not a mosaic billet) the can should pick up carbon through migration, plus it will be a small component.  I suppose you could make the can out of 1080 or something.

 

Geoff

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