Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 Recently we've had the largest snow accumulation in the past twenty years and sub-zero temps which have precluded much shop time but it has afforded me some time for design. I believe that for my next project I'm going to build a renaissance style dagger. I have started on a new variation of an explosion pattern mosaic damascus which should work well for it. Since it will have a "busy" pattern blade, I think a fairly plain hilt of blackwood & 416 will compliment it well. My biggest pre-production problem that I see is that my little mini lathe won't accept a large enough diameter stainless round rod to turn the size pommel that I would prefer but I'll dig into my "bag of tricks" and figure something out. I'll try to keep you advised as I progress. 7 Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Ouellette 78 Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 What type of chuck do you have on your lathe and what is the largest size it will accept? Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 It is a 3 jaw chuck that opens to 1" Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Ouellette 78 Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 7 minutes ago, Gary Mulkey said: It is a 3 jaw chuck that opens to 1" Depending on how much swing you have over the cross slide, you can add .25" to your widest dimension then use a saw or cut off wheel to cut one end of your stock small enough to fit in the chuck. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
jake cleland 523 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 On some 3 jaw chucks you can remove and invert the chuck teeth to grip larger stock... 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Ouellette 78 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 4 hours ago, jake cleland said: On some 3 jaw chucks you can remove and invert the chuck teeth to grip larger stock... Most of the 3 jaws I've used had jaws that come off to be inverted due to the shape of the threading mechanism. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,141 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Just be sure to keep them in order! They will be stamped 1, 2, and 3, and the slots will as well. If you get them mixed up they won't be concentric. Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 After a bit of massaging I got my little lathe to accept 1.25" which I was happy with. You can see that I hollowed the pommel which is mainly for weight reduction. The damascus billet for the blade is a variation of an explosion pattern. Once I was happy with the pattern, I got the billet annealed and cut into tiles. I'll try to get it welded tomorrow. 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Bishop 9 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 That is a nice design. Would you mind someone else trying that? Jon Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Jon, Feel free Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 My first look at the pattern: 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Christenberry 362 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Wow, Gary, you sure know how to put those patterns together. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
John Albright 6 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 That is awesome!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,141 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 That's gonna look good with the centerline running through those X's. Good pattern for a double-edged symmetrical blade. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Dougherty 1,264 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Nice. I know exactly how that is done now thanks to you. I still can't do it as well though 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Brian, I did this one without a can but a simple tile cut & weld. Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Dougherty 1,264 Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I could see that you welded the tiles square to each other, and wondered if it was a can, or a ferry flip. I still struggle to get my diagonals to come out straight Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 I occasionally will put a Ferry flip in a canoe just to increase the chances of good welds. I just opted not to this time. Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 I got in enough shop time today to rough out the quillon guard (416). (the quillons have a peened through pin that will get silver soldered to the body of the guard.) Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 (edited) I've all the components roughed out. Next is to H/T & temper the blade. Edited February 27 by Gary Mulkey Link to post Share on other sites
Austin_Lyles 171 Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Looks wonderful, Gary! 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Mulkey 1,442 Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 I've gotten the blade to where I want it. Now to complete the hilt. 4 Link to post Share on other sites
John Albright 6 Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 That is awesome! 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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