Doug Webster Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I was thinking of starting with a 1.25" ball bearing. Then I got the idea to go low layer Damascus twist with a few raindrops. Here's my progress from yesterday. I'm feeling a Tanto is the direction I go next if I don't find any delaminations. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 Two bubbles of delamination showed up in the blade. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 I went back to 1.25" ball bearing of 52100 and have a good start on a hidden tang. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Longmire Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 That first pic with the reflections in the bearing is AWESOME! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles dP Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Yeah, very cool. 1 "The way we win matters" (Ender Wiggins) Orson Scott Card Nos qui libertate donati nescimus quid constat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 It was a little phantasmic watching that bearing heat up. Maybe I found my inspiration 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Dougherty Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Way cool pic. I'm also contemplating the ball bearing thing -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert D. Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 I second the reflection pic, thats awesome.... http://robertjamescustoms.tumblr.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 I forged the 131 gram bearing into an 85 gram blade. I am in the middle of draw filing the spine. Next up is the edge bevel. I also salvaged a Kogatana from the delaminated Damascus. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted July 25, 2021 Author Share Posted July 25, 2021 Here's the direction I am thinking of going 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 (edited) I have always had difficulty annealing blades and the 52100 is really difficult. I set a 3" pipe inside the forge and on a low fire can hold it at sub critical heat. I'll try annealing for an hour and see if this helps? Open to any suggestions. Edited August 3, 2021 by Doug Webster 52100 not 5160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Longmire Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 That will probably work fine. You could even go up to 1300 F and not cause problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua States Posted August 1, 2021 Share Posted August 1, 2021 You are annealing at this point? Can I ask why? “So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.” The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing. Josh http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg J.States Bladesmith | Facebook https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71 https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 I don't have a belt grinder. I'm annealing to make it easier to hand file and sand to 320 grit. Soaking at 1100 to 1200 F helped but it was still pretty hard. If I try this again, I might pack the tube with vermiculite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua States Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 If that bearing is 52100, you won't get a true soft spheroidal anneal without some serious heat control. Try normalizing by bringing it up to around 1600*F and letting it air cool two or three times. Maybe step down to 1475 on the second go and 1300 on the third. That will get it in better shape than the vermiculite. Do a Google search for "Kevin Cashen + 52100" It will tell you this: One of 2 steels in the 5XXXX series listed by AISI that contains 1% carbon or more, for use in applications requiring high hardness. Knifemakers using this steel would be well served to study the special considerations in using hypereutectoid steels in dealing with the challenges these carbon levels pose. Recommended Working Sequence For 52100 Forging: Heat to 2100 °F (1150 °C) maximum, and do not forge after temperature of the forging stock has dropped below approximately 1700 °F (925 °C) Normalizing: Heat to 1625 °F (885 °C) and cool in still air. Annealing: For a predominately spheroidized structure which is generally desired for machining, heat to 1460 °F (795 °C) and cool rapidly to 1380 °F (750 °C), then continue cooling to 1250 °F (675 °C) at a rate not exceeding 10 °F (6 °C) per hour; or as an alternative technique, heat to 1460 °F (795 °C), cool rapidly to 1275 °F (690 °C) and hold for 16 hours. Hardening: Austenitize from 1475°F to 1550 °F (845 °C) and quench in oil. Lower austenitizing temperatures may be used depending upon the previous thermal treatments and resulting carbide conditions. If higher temperatures result in excess carbon in solution, retained austenite can become problematic. Tempering: As-quenched hardness as high as 66 HRC. After quenching, parts should be tempered as soon as they have uniformly reached near ambient temperature. 1 “So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.” The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing. Josh http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg J.States Bladesmith | Facebook https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71 https://www.etsy.com/shop/JStatesBladesmith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted September 9, 2021 Author Share Posted September 9, 2021 I'm getting close to completing this project. What is our deadline? Sheath is required, correct? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Middleton Posted September 9, 2021 Share Posted September 9, 2021 Looking good Doug! I think the "deadline" was set at October 1st. I don't think that there was any mention of a sheath being a requirement. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Just about ready to finish this project. Here's a few pictures of furniture. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Done ✔ 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaron Martindale Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 Wow! That's insanely Beautiful! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pieter-Paul Derks Posted September 21, 2021 Share Posted September 21, 2021 Very cool! that looks like a very satisfying fit between all the parts 1 http://mefecit.nl/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Webster Posted September 22, 2021 Author Share Posted September 22, 2021 Thanks for the compliments. I am hoping to get a sheath made before the deadline and lay up a few more coats of Tru-oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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