Doug Webster 94 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I was thinking of starting with a 1.25" ball bearing. Then I got the idea to go low layer Damascus twist with a few raindrops. Here's my progress from yesterday. I'm feeling a Tanto is the direction I go next if I don't find any delaminations. 3 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Two bubbles of delamination showed up in the blade. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 I went back to 1.25" ball bearing of 52100 and have a good start on a hidden tang. 5 Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,297 Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 That first pic with the reflections in the bearing is AWESOME! 5 Link to post Share on other sites
Charles dP 550 Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Yeah, very cool. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 It was a little phantasmic watching that bearing heat up. Maybe I found my inspiration 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Dougherty 1,296 Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Way cool pic. I'm also contemplating the ball bearing thing Link to post Share on other sites
Robert D. 106 Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 I second the reflection pic, thats awesome.... Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 I forged the 131 gram bearing into an 85 gram blade. I am in the middle of draw filing the spine. Next up is the edge bevel. I also salvaged a Kogatana from the delaminated Damascus. 3 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted July 25 Author Share Posted July 25 Here's the direction I am thinking of going 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 (edited) I have always had difficulty annealing blades and the 52100 is really difficult. I set a 3" pipe inside the forge and on a low fire can hold it at sub critical heat. I'll try annealing for an hour and see if this helps? Open to any suggestions. Edited August 3 by Doug Webster 52100 not 5160 Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,297 Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 That will probably work fine. You could even go up to 1300 F and not cause problems Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 2,170 Posted August 1 Share Posted August 1 You are annealing at this point? Can I ask why? Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted August 2 Author Share Posted August 2 I don't have a belt grinder. I'm annealing to make it easier to hand file and sand to 320 grit. Soaking at 1100 to 1200 F helped but it was still pretty hard. If I try this again, I might pack the tube with vermiculite. Link to post Share on other sites
Joshua States 2,170 Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 If that bearing is 52100, you won't get a true soft spheroidal anneal without some serious heat control. Try normalizing by bringing it up to around 1600*F and letting it air cool two or three times. Maybe step down to 1475 on the second go and 1300 on the third. That will get it in better shape than the vermiculite. Do a Google search for "Kevin Cashen + 52100" It will tell you this: One of 2 steels in the 5XXXX series listed by AISI that contains 1% carbon or more, for use in applications requiring high hardness. Knifemakers using this steel would be well served to study the special considerations in using hypereutectoid steels in dealing with the challenges these carbon levels pose. Recommended Working Sequence For 52100 Forging: Heat to 2100 °F (1150 °C) maximum, and do not forge after temperature of the forging stock has dropped below approximately 1700 °F (925 °C) Normalizing: Heat to 1625 °F (885 °C) and cool in still air. Annealing: For a predominately spheroidized structure which is generally desired for machining, heat to 1460 °F (795 °C) and cool rapidly to 1380 °F (750 °C), then continue cooling to 1250 °F (675 °C) at a rate not exceeding 10 °F (6 °C) per hour; or as an alternative technique, heat to 1460 °F (795 °C), cool rapidly to 1275 °F (690 °C) and hold for 16 hours. Hardening: Austenitize from 1475°F to 1550 °F (845 °C) and quench in oil. Lower austenitizing temperatures may be used depending upon the previous thermal treatments and resulting carbide conditions. If higher temperatures result in excess carbon in solution, retained austenite can become problematic. Tempering: As-quenched hardness as high as 66 HRC. After quenching, parts should be tempered as soon as they have uniformly reached near ambient temperature. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted September 9 Author Share Posted September 9 I'm getting close to completing this project. What is our deadline? Sheath is required, correct? 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Middleton 752 Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Looking good Doug! I think the "deadline" was set at October 1st. I don't think that there was any mention of a sheath being a requirement. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted September 19 Author Share Posted September 19 Just about ready to finish this project. Here's a few pictures of furniture. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted September 19 Author Share Posted September 19 Done ✔ 3 Link to post Share on other sites
Jaron Martindale 80 Posted September 20 Share Posted September 20 Wow! That's insanely Beautiful! 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Pieter-Paul Derks 292 Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Very cool! that looks like a very satisfying fit between all the parts 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Webster 94 Posted September 22 Author Share Posted September 22 Thanks for the compliments. I am hoping to get a sheath made before the deadline and lay up a few more coats of Tru-oil. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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