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Hello Everyone,

                         So I have some 14 tons of grade-a cold rolled and annealed 6150 spring steel that must go. I have more coming in but don't have space for it. Sections were sheared from much wider flats. I have widths from 1.4 to 4.5 (4.5 not on site yet) and thicknesses from 0.122 to 0.250. Many available now on Blade6150.com and many sizes yet to be measured and inventoried. I sell 48" lengths but will cut and ship 12", 24" or 48". This is determined by the shipping method chosen during checkout. If you have any questions feel free to ask here, in PM or email me directly through the contact page on the website. This stuff makes some seriously tough blades. It's great for knives, choppers, axes, swords etc..

 

Thanks for looking,

John

 

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Hello Everyone,                          So I have some 14 tons of grade-a cold rolled and annealed 6150 spring steel that must go. I have more coming in but don't have space for it. Sections wer

I placed my order this morning, got confirmation of shipment less than 8 hrs later.  Whether or not 6150 is something that I'll keep working remains to be seen, but you can't beat that for customer se

Placed my order.   Can you post or email that document or any heat treating instructions that you have?   Are you planning on carrying any other steels (because at your prices, the

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Well... it does look tempting Mr. "created an account just to post this".

 

But... for a brand new storefront created this year... a physical address and phone number so we can check up on exactly who you are would go a long way.  BBB review would be good, maybe a synopsis of your business? You've got 14 tons of steel nicely arranged in racks, surely you didn't just start this year.

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Hi Ted,

            Yes I did create the account today, but not just for this, but yes it is my first post. I spoke with Alan Longmire long before creating an account or posting. Ask him. I can assure you i am a real person and you will receive 100% exactly what you purchase. My address will be on the shipping label. I do not have a bbb. I am just me with a huge supply of steel. The website was created about 30 days ago. How do you store steel? Just toss it a heap? I have built racks and measure and sort all cuts. No i didn't just start dealing with this steel this year. I've been working with the shop for many years. Have a good one Ted.

 

Best,

John

 

Here ya go. I figured this might help. So the picture above on the steel built racks is at the shop. That's where i'm picking up and most needs picked up. The images i'll include after this message are of my truck loaded and then all of the pallets pre-sorting in my garage. Then there are photos of the wooden racks I am building here as needed. I measure, sort and tag every single piece. See that snow? I've been at this a while now.

 

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I was flippant and I do apologize for coming across as too skeptical. 

 

But I do still maintain that in these days of rampant fraud and scams, a little more information would go a long way to reassuring people who know neither you nor even Alan particularly that it is safe to enter their credit card information in your website.  Your prices are good, your shipping is amazingly good, and as I said: I'm tempted - I actually am quite interested in placing an order. I'm just looking for a little more reassurance that I won't spend a highly aggravating few hours on the phone with my credit card's Fraud Claims department afterwards.

 

Being able to post more pictures certainly does help, and I wasn't doubting that you've been doing it a while - I was suggesting that since you surely had been at this a while you had something more to show than a very sincere (and well written - I'm not knocking it!) sales pitch.

 

Before I ever purchase anything from a store I've not been to before, I do research on them first - do they seem to be a "real" business? What sort of reviews are there? Are there any warnings, writeups, or other alarm worth items just a google search away that will save me a world of headache?  How does your site measure up to the standard advice for trustworthiness? And that last one is the one that gave me pause: new site, no contact information, no "about us" of any sort - those are red flags. 

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39 minutes ago, Ted Stocksdale said:

I was flippant and I do apologize for coming across as too skeptical. 

 

But I do still maintain that in these days of rampant fraud a..................... do they seem to be a "real" business? What sort of reviews are there? Are there any warnings, writeups, or other alarm worth items just a google search away that will save me a world of headache?  How does your site measure up to the standard advice for trustworthiness? And that last one is the one that gave me pause: new site, no contact information, no "about us" of any sort - those are red flags. 

Hey Ted,

               I guess I understand where you're coming from. Here's where i'm coming from. What I had intended two months back was to learn to make awesome knives. I found myself in a position with this steel and now I have to deal with it. I just spent the last four or so weeks moving an incredible amount of steel by hand while learning about out how to make a safe and secure website to sell from that didn't involve ebay or scamazon.

 

It is secured with 2048 bit encryption to protect against hackers. The website is hosted at InMotion Hosting. They're huge look them up. The website payment section is connected securely with SSL encryption directly to the bank processor. I personally showed up there with three forms of ID to make an account. I can't see your payment details and dont want to. I want to sell steel and I can't do that if i rip you off. There's really nothing more that I can add here. The next time you're at the store grab a prepaid credit card. Try out the steel and learn to trust again. ;)

 

Best,

John

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13 hours ago, Ted Stocksdale said:

Well... it does look tempting Mr. "created an account just to post this".

 

I'm glad you guys seem to have worked it out, but that's not how we treat people on this forum.  I appreciate your worries about scams, but steel is not one of those things that gets scammed, at least not by small time operators.  There's a reason Admiral Steel still doesn't get my business, but that was a deliberate mislabeling issue on their part followed by some QC issues.  At any rate, be nice. We're the good forum, remember?

 

For those who are wondering, 6150 is what they use for those big dump truck and railroad leaf springs, the ones that are like an inch thick in the middle.  Also used for torsion springs.  You don't see it often in the knife world, but it is an excellent steel for big blades.  It's tougher than 5160 by a long shot, and hardness tops out at around Rc58 - Rc60.  

 

Typical analysis is C - 0.48-0.53%, MN - 0.7-0.9%, Si 0.15-0.3%, Cr 0.8 - 1.10%, V - 0.15% min.  Also known as EN47 and DIN 1.8159. Harden from 1600F, oil quench.  Don't expect hamon, it's too deep hardening for that.  

 

John, you got an analysis for your batch? 

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35 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

 

I'm glad you guys seem to have worked it out, but that's.........  John, you got an analysis for your batch? 

Hey Alan,

                 I've been waiting on the source to give me this as well as their heat treat details. If i'm not satisfied soon I know there's a place local to me that does some laser analysis. They also do heat treats for other companies. I'm pretty sure they are the heat treaters for the shop where my supply comes from. What you've posted here looks very close to what I've been told I'm just not rock solid on those number because I've been told that does have a slightly higher than usual carbon content for 6150. My source uses this steel for blades like pruning shears, engine timing gears and some other stuff.

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Out of curiosity, would 6150 be a better choice for a machete over 5160? And if it is, would it in turn be worth taking on the harder forging and slightly more stringent heat treat recipe when I only have simple tools??

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Alan, not to hijack this thread, but would you happen to have an idea as to how well 6150 welds up with 15n20 in a billet?  Looking at the analysis I am thinking it might etch dark like 1084.  Just thinking here...

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If I were to do a machete out of this stuff, I'd go stock removal only with the 0.122" stock, and temper for ~ Rc50.  Full spring temper, in other words.  

 

Just now, Dan Kaschner said:

Alan, not to hijack this thread, but would you happen to have an idea as to how well 6150 welds up with 15n20 in a billet?  Looking at the analysis I am thinking it might etch dark like 1084.  Just thinking here...

 

Hey, Dan!

 

I would think it would etch dark, but I'd be hesitant using it in a billet because of the chrome.  If you're doing it in a can that won't be a problem, of course.  It'll stick to 15n20 just fine, but I suspect it would stick to itself about like 5160.  That is, fine if you get it right, but difficult to get right.  

 

I don't have that much experience with this stuff.  It is hard under the hammer, and it is more wear-resistant after hardening than 5160.  Not fun to hand-sand.

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Thanks Alan.  Kinda why I was asking.  The chrome had me wondering.

 

Just as an aside.  Vicky and I miss seeing you and all our friends in Tennessee, especially Ron and Phyllis.  We've been looking for an excuse to make the trip.  A hammer-in sure would be fun.

 

Thanks again Buddy.  Sorry to diverge from the thread.

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Some folks have talked about stacking with 15n20 and seeing good results. I can't say for sure either way as I've never forged a blade a day in my life. I plan to though once this is over. Will be building a forge here pretty soon. I did have a customer/buyer report back on FB yesterday with his 5 or so minute etch test. It's dark. 6150 on left W2 on right.

 

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4 minutes ago, Jonathanbradshaw said:

I’m not seeing anything thicker than 0.25” listed. Do you sell any sizes that would be a appropriate for an axe? I’m thinking more like 1/2”-5/8” thick for a punch and drift axe. 

Hey Jonathan,

                           I may eventually get just a tad over 0.250 but it wouldn't be much over. The widest i'll ever see is 4.5". Anything more could be loaded into the shear again and reused. So 4.5 x 0.250 is really about it and I'll be adding this and other similar sizes over the next few days as time permits.

 

Thank you,

John

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So I spent a little more time today reaching out to folks involved with this shop as well as their exclusive heat treat company. The person I spoke with has been heat treating this particular steel for my friends shop in the thousands of pounds per day for over 20 years. He said the same thing I've been saying. It's absolutely high quality steel that will make an excellent blade. It will finish to around 60HRC. He said that if you have a piece of 5160 and a piece of this 6150 side by side that you would have a very tough time telling them apart. This person heat treats this steel every day for 20 years and says it makes great blades. His recommendation was 1550 to 1600 for 20 minutes before quenching around 300°. There was a ton of info coming at nearly light speed. I retained all that I could. Thanks for reading! Best, John

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FWIW, here is what the ASM Heat Treater's Guide has to say about it.  (Not going to copy the whole text verbatim, buy the book if you want that.)

 

Forge between 1650 and 2250 F.  You have about 3 seconds to beat the nose of the curve, about the same as 4140H (a little faster than is required for 5160).  Ms is at about 575, M90 is about 450.  As quenched hardness is generally around 55-60 HRC.  Austenitize at 1600, quench in oil, start tempering before the blade gets below 100F. 

 

There is no mention of a need to soak at temperature, and they do mention soaks for things like D2 and O1.  Given the V spec is only a "0.15% minimum", there is no real way to know how much is going to be in there.  We can assume it is going to be in the range of 0.20-0.25% though, due to cost and the real need of V in the alloy.  At those ranges I wouldn't be too worried about a soak, especially just at 1600 (VC is hard to dissolve).  It may be wise to do a soak at higher temps as the start of a normalization routine.  Get those carbides dissolved, everything distributed, then follow up cycles at lower temps will hardly affect the VC.  

 

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9 minutes ago, Jerrod Miller said:

FWIW, here is what the ASM Heat Trea.... ......hing distributed, then follow up cycles at lower temps will hardly affect the VC.  

 

I'm just passing along what I've learned from a person who's been working with this particular steel for some 20 years. He's in the blade shop at peters heat treating in meadville pa.

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Hey Dan. I'm pretty sure there wont be any 1", but i'm thinking i spotted some maybe 1.5 or close. There's bunch that I have to work through I've been saying in a few days now for about a week, but i'm just slammed busy with all of this. It's a good problem to have i guess. I will get on it soon. Please keep checking the site incase i forgot to let you know what i come up with and when it's added.

 

Thank you,

John

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