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There are a few more things I should show you about attaching the handle to the knife. There are three basic ways to do this.

1. Just glue it on. This can be done all at once or in sections.

2. Create a take-down version. This requires you to glue the scale to the frame separately, and then attach the handle to the tang with a mechanical fastener.

3. Glue it on and put a pin through the tang. This can be done all at once, or in separate operations.

I won't even get into the ultra super crazy way that Jean-Louis Regel does his take down version that needs zero glue. If you really want to test yourself, check out this thread and the video, or look him up on IG or FB to see this. 

For this knife, I am doing option #1 with a the variant that does this in two steps. Maybe over time, I will add to this thread with option #2 and/or #3.

No matter what method you choose, you have to decide what to do with the pins that attach the scales to the frame. Are they domed, or filed flush?

 

I first start by relieving a section of the mating surfaces on the frame and tang. Here is the frame with the are relieved.

 

Frame relief.jpg

 

You will note that I left a slim line around the outside and the inside edge. This is because I am going to glue the pins in and attach the scales to the frame before I attach the handle to the blade. I do this with a rotary tool and a long skinny round grinding stone. Dremel makes them for sharpening chainsaw blades. Pin the frame to one scale and draw the line around the inside. You want to create a matching channel in the outside of the scale and relieve the area in the center of the scale as well. You must keep flat areas on the outside of that line so the epoxy will not seep into the center area when you glue the scales to the frame. Do both scales and apply a small bead of epoxy in the channel. Pin the scales to the frame and clamp until cured.

 

Sand and notch the tang to give the epoxy a good purchase. The surface should should be sanded to 100 grit or rougher. You notch the tang and maybe drill a hole or two through it to create epoxy "rivets".

 

Tang nothes.jpg

 

Assemble and clamp as you would any other hidden tang.

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