Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I’ve been tinkering with some nickel silver lately and having a dang hard time of it. I’ve got a bar of 3/8” x 1” and I’ve been trying to forge it down in some cases and shape it generally in others. I’m noticing it seems to have a tiny window where you can manipulate it before it either cracks or crumbles.  It’s incredibly stout to hammer and I’ve tried to be easy with it.  I’ve tried several different heats and I’m having less than stellar luck. Do any of you have any pointers? Thank you in advance!

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Oberu said:

I’ve been tinkering with some nickel silver lately and having a dang hard time of it. I’ve got a bar of 3/8” x 1” and I’ve been trying to forge it down in some cases and shape it generally in others. I’m noticing it seems to have a tiny window where you can manipulate it before it either cracks or crumbles.  It’s incredibly stout to hammer and I’ve tried to be easy with it.  I’ve tried several different heats and I’m having less than stellar luck. Do any of you have any pointers? Thank you in advance!

It needs to be cold forged and annealed frequently.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I have found that when I get the idea to work something that isnt steel or alloy of steel I look if its used in jewelry. If yes I look at how jewelry makers work it and can give me hints on what can be forged and what is cold worked. It wont always answer my question or give me much guidance but usually points me in a good direction to start looking before dive into the forums.

 

It can be forged at least since it is one of the materials used in Mokume-gane but like you noticed its a lower temp and can be problematic. Its really how much effort you want to put into learning how to do it hot and possibly wasting some or spend longer working it cold when its thicker. 

 

I also found this old thread might help 

 

Edited by Sean Blum
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yessir, I’ve run into issues google fu’n some things recently and I know there are some pipe swinging bad arses in here. A few words is usually enough to set me right. I figure that’s what there’s a forum for honesty . Thank you all for taking the time to give me your insight. I truly do appreciate it!

Link to post
Share on other sites

As noted, it is worked cold in the annealed state.   Depending on how tight your forging is, you may also want to pickle it then a quick rinse and rub with some pumice after every annealing to remove the oxide layer otherwise you drive the oxides into the metal when forging.  This may not make a difference if your finished part needs to be heavily shaped with a grinder or file but will if you forge it to near net form or want to leave hammer marks in it.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

All good advice here. It's been a few years since I forged nickel-silver, but I do remember that it will crumble if you forge it hotter than a black heat. When I used it in Mokume, it was heat, quench (anneal), reheat, cool, forge. I would grab the piece with tongs and hold it inside a steel tube until I couldn't see any glow before forging. Always heat and anneal after forging. The pickling idea is sound advice.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for all the advice fellows!  Through some hammering and filing I’ve got what I was after. Now to finish everything else..

90FE0308-714A-4742-9309-7EBBA81375E8.jpeg

5B2E5634-BFE2-4801-9233-12A60D1BBFE4.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up doing cold hammering and annealing often. It worked well enough but sure took a while.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...