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How to hold the burner at an angle without welding?


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Someone named welshjoel posted this pic to help answer another one of my questions. I really like the position and angle of his burner, but i do not have access to a welder. Any thoughts on how i might hold the burner in place at an angle like this without welding the larger pipe “holder” to the body of the forge?

 

98183DB2-1666-4A26-AEF2-9AE1B4F39FC2.png

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I have a large forge that I built out of a large mailbox.  It has three inches of ceramic matting around the inside.  I cut a hole in the matting for the burner tube and packed castable refractory in it and made a cone of the same refractory to protect the end of the tube.  Of course, I coated the ceramic liner with the castable refractory also.

 

I have a smaller forge that I made out of a castable refractory and the burner tube is just simple cast into the wall of the forge without the tube extending inside the wall.

 

Doug

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Posted (edited)

Thanks. Oh i didn’t think that would have been enough to hold the burner tube in place without external support (the mounting pipe on the forge itself), then again i suppose as long as I’m not moving the forge, it should stay put. Maybe it’ll be ok for a bit until i can figure something out. It still seems like that’s a lot of pressure on the castable refractory to hold the tube in place at an angle

Edited by Nicholai
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If you have the tubing to make the larger pipe holder, use a piece a couple inches longer than necessary.  Cut slits an inch or two up one end and bend the resulting tabs out 90 degrees and flatten.  This is easier hot, if you have a torch.  Drill holes, bolt to the forge body at the angle you want.  I like a true tangent rather than just a tilted entry.

This requires cutting the end of the tube you're going to make tabs from at an angle.  Practice on a paper towel tube or something first.

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I welded mine of course- 

But one of the thoughts I had to make it more removable, was to make my collar for the burner... and use four or five 90 degree angle brackets to screw to the body of the forge, and into the collar. 

 

Alan is describing kind of the same thing, but just making the brackets integral to the collar. Good thinking.

 

Depending on how you did it, you could use longer bolts with extra nuts on them to maintain positioning Of the burner.

 

In the end, I just bit the bullet and bought more welding wire.:D

Edited by Welsh joel
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Posted (edited)


Would galvanized brackets be safe to use for this application? 

 

Thanks guys!! Awesome suggestions. Bolting brackets sounds like the easier of the two; I’m not sure how successful I’d be cutting and pulling tabs on a pipe. And to Alan’s point.. I’ll try to bend the brackets just a bit to get it coming in at a tangent as well. 

Edited by Nicholai
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I would not use galvi anywhere it's likely to get hot.  This is one of those places where the "I want to make knives" thought runs into the real world "If you want to the thing, you have to be able to all of the things that come before it".

 

Learning the basics of welding (effectively a kind of hot glue gun) and getting a small mig or stick welder, allows you a greater deal of freedom in how you build the tools to make the tools to make the knives.  If you have the resources, this might be the time to get a cheap welder.

Geoff

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11 minutes ago, Geoff Keyes said:

I would not use galvi anywhere it's likely to get hot.  This is one of those places where the "I want to make knives" thought runs into the real world "If you want to the thing, you have to be able to all of the things that come before it".

 

Learning the basics of welding (effectively a kind of hot glue gun) and getting a small mig or stick welder, allows you a greater deal of freedom in how you build the tools to make the tools to make the knives.  If you have the resources, this might be the time to get a cheap welder.

Geoff

Ya man. I hav been looking into it,, but i don’t have bigger than a 15 amp outlet to use.. so it’s kinda on delay for now 

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I also don't have a welder, and ran into this issue.

I did what Alan suggested and Bolted a Pipe to the forge body with Stainless hardware prior to wool or refractory. :)   I used a square tube cause its what I had, but it also came with the bonus of being able to drill and tap the tube to keep my burner attached a little easier. :D

here's some pictures:

 

IMG_6388.jpg      IMG_6389.jpg   IMG_6390.png  IMG_3660.jpg  IMG_3662.jpg

 

Edited by Jaron Martindale
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Something just popped into my feeble mind.  Go to the Zoeller Forge site.  He sells an assembly to do just what you want and, after you see how it's made, you just might be able to find the parts at a hardware store to make your own.  It's a larger black pipe that can hold your burner tube that is held in place on your forge wall by two threaded rings.  One on the inside of the forge and one on the outside.  The inner ring will be protected from the flame of your forge by the ceramic matting and insulation.

 

Doug

 

P.S.  Look down to the forge plans he has on line and it will show you exactly how it goes together.

Edited by Doug Lester
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Thank you all for the suggestions. 
Jaron, those pics were extremely helpful, as was the zoeller build suggestion. I am going to try the conduit lock rings first, since it is the simplest.. if that doesn’t work out then I’ll bracket and bolt something on. 
 

0914F553-A886-4EF5-BB2D-D5F214BE0E03.jpeg

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