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First attempt at recreating a Kabar


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It was suggested that for my next project, that I add my draft drawings and progression. I'm making this Kabar for the family of my Marine Brother, who lost his battle with cancer. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I want to make this as perfect as possible. The steel I'm using is from a bearing.  My question is should I switch steels to a 1084 bar stock?

20210706_101421.jpg

Edited by Peter Killham
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Some of the problem is going to be heat treating.  With it being from a bearing it could be 52100, or it might not be, which can make the heat treating iffy if all you have is a forge.  If you can get 1084 bar stock you will have something that will be easier to heat treat and get the most out of the alloy.  With what you have now you are definitely off to a good start.  The blade is a little wide with plenty of steel to draw out the tang.

 

Doug

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6 minutes ago, Doug Lester said:

 

Some of the problem is going to be heat treating.  With it being from a bearing it could be 52100, or it might not be, which can make the heat treating iffy if all you have is a forge.  If you can get 1084 bar stock you will have something that will be easier to heat treat and get the most out of the alloy.  With what you have now you are definitely off to a good start.  The blade is a little wide with plenty of steel to draw out the tang.

 

Doug

That is what I was worried about. I know that it's hardenable, but don't know what steel it is. 

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The quench on 52100 is not tricky, its the normalisation, which needs to be done multiple times and correct anneal. I would not be so affraid. 52100 is very high performing steel even today, you can always send the clear ground piece to hardening service.

One thing on original ka-bar I do not like is the blade to tang transition, which would be better radiused, which would make fitting the guard filling job and also reason why they dont do it on factory knives. But you could do that. You could also make the tang tad more wide.

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6 minutes ago, Jaro Petrina said:

The quench on 52100 is not tricky, its the normalisation, which needs to be done multiple times and correct anneal. I would not be so affraid. 52100 is very high performing steel even today, you can always send the clear ground piece to hardening service.

One thing on original ka-bar I do not like is the blade to tang transition, which would be better radiused, which would make fitting the guard filling job and also reason why they dont do it on factory knives. But you could do that. You could also make the tang tad more wide.

Thanks for the heads up on the 52100. I decided to continue with the 52100, and I'm probably going to leave the tang a little thicker.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
1 hour ago, Alex Middleton said:

Looking pretty good to me.  What did you use to patina the blade?

Thanks! The stacked leather proved to be a challenge for me.  For the patina, I hand sanded to 2,000 grit, then I did two ferric chloride dips.  First one 10 minutes, the second for 20 minutes.

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Just about all that is missing is the "USMC".  The fuller might have gotten a little wobbly and you could have put some metal or plastic spacers between the leather washers every third or forth one but you did a real nice job there.

 

Doug

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Thank you!  I thought about adding the "USMC" but decided against it. (Since I have never engraved before, didn't want to risk.)  I didn't even think about spacers!  Thank you again!  My fullers definitely need work, I've been watching videos on how to put them in. 

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