1075 heat treatment

[Gerhard Gerber 453]

Do you mean some anti-scale compound so I can normalize in the kiln?

I don't have any refractory cement, and I'm careful about what I put in the kiln because I can't afford to replace it.
I try to get at least 2 uses out of each foil envelopes, so I considered using one of those for the 1070 blades, but I mostly make hunting knives in stainless and chef's knives in 1070, so the envelops are too small.

 

[Alan Longmire 3,674]

No, I meant in the forge.  I agree about putting odd things in the kiln.  If you have some protective atmosphere in the forge you can do all the pre-quenching heat treat steps with no worries about decarb.

[Gerhard Gerber 453]

Chicken & egg situation, if I could get my new burners working I could build the new forge with the proper bricks I acquired nearly 2 years ago and stick a pipe in there.....

Been thinking about this a lot seeing the price of kilns, before I've imported it....

Shouldn't say this out loud, but I'm pretty sure I got lucky a few times and did a better HT with a pipe in the forge than with the accurate kiln, specifically carbon steel blades......way less decarb.

 

I have a small container of something that might be water damaged refractory cement, I could never get it to set into anything usable so I might as well try the mix you suggested, can't hurt and no loss 

Edited January 12 by Gerhard Gerber
grammer

[Alan Longmire 3,674]

Certainly worth a shot.  Use a coat thin as paint.

[Doug Lester 400]

Is Parks #50 the preferred quenchant for 1075?

 

Doug

[Alan Longmire 3,674]

If it's the NJSB low-Mn 1075, yes.  That or water/brine, it was developed for hamon.

 

If it's Admiral or other high-Mn 1075, no. Canola or a medium oil is better.

[Randy Griffin 60]

I have a piece of 1075 from NJSB so when I use it I will need to quench in water to get the most out of the steel?

[Alan Longmire 3,674]

No, canola is fine.  Only use water if you want really active hamon or if it's really thick in section, like a hammer.