Gerhard Gerber 469 Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Do you mean some anti-scale compound so I can normalize in the kiln? I don't have any refractory cement, and I'm careful about what I put in the kiln because I can't afford to replace it. I try to get at least 2 uses out of each foil envelopes, so I considered using one of those for the 1070 blades, but I mostly make hunting knives in stainless and chef's knives in 1070, so the envelops are too small. Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 No, I meant in the forge. I agree about putting odd things in the kiln. If you have some protective atmosphere in the forge you can do all the pre-quenching heat treat steps with no worries about decarb. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 469 Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) Chicken & egg situation, if I could get my new burners working I could build the new forge with the proper bricks I acquired nearly 2 years ago and stick a pipe in there..... Been thinking about this a lot seeing the price of kilns, before I've imported it.... Shouldn't say this out loud, but I'm pretty sure I got lucky a few times and did a better HT with a pipe in the forge than with the accurate kiln, specifically carbon steel blades......way less decarb. I have a small container of something that might be water damaged refractory cement, I could never get it to set into anything usable so I might as well try the mix you suggested, can't hurt and no loss Edited January 12 by Gerhard Gerber grammer Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 Certainly worth a shot. Use a coat thin as paint. Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Lester 404 Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 Is Parks #50 the preferred quenchant for 1075? Doug HELP...I'm a twenty year old trapped in the body of an old man!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 If it's the NJSB low-Mn 1075, yes. That or water/brine, it was developed for hamon. If it's Admiral or other high-Mn 1075, no. Canola or a medium oil is better. Link to post Share on other sites
Randy Griffin 68 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 I have a piece of 1075 from NJSB so when I use it I will need to quench in water to get the most out of the steel? Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 No, canola is fine. Only use water if you want really active hamon or if it's really thick in section, like a hammer. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 469 Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 I now have 1070, 1084 and 80CRV2 in thin bar stock suitable for kitchen knives. The recommendation here is bar stock like that needs to be normalized as well, currently I just grind and heat treat. I will still try the old refractory cement as anti-scale, but I have serious doubts I can get the stuff to bind. So I had a thought, what if I profile the blade, normalize, grind the bevels and then heat treat? Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,773 Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 5 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said: what if I profile the blade, normalize, grind the bevels and then heat treat? That will work fine. I'd throw one more normalizing cycle in after the grind just to relieve any uneven stresses from the grind. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now