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Form material question with refractory


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I built a mockup of my burner out of cardboard to get a visual its thick cardboard not your standard stuff. Then it hit me maybe i could use this cardboard mockup as a form for the castable refractory. The only thing i was thinking is that it could possibly distort with the weight and water of the refractory. I could line it with something to take care of the water. I did some searching and could not  really find any answers, probably for good reason. 
 

figured i would as in any case as you never know. 

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It would be better to follow the instructions and it is not that trouble to build the wooden form.  If you used the cardboard how would you attach to the floor?  If it doesn't work out well you will have to get more castable and still have to build the form.

Let me know if I can help you.

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2 hours ago, Wayne Coe said:

It would be better to follow the instructions and it is not that trouble to build the wooden form.  If you used the cardboard how would you attach to the floor?  If it doesn't work out well you will have to get more castable and still have to build the form.

Let me know if I can help you.

I understand and i have the wood here. I was just thinking and while it may be a stupid idea I am the type of person thats gotta find the answer to the question. 
 

the other reason i mocked this up is for cutting the hole in the forge. Just to make sure i get the hole the right size and all. Oh and the whole thing is taped together floor and all. Its pretty solid. I didnt know if anyone had ever done it this way and I dont want to waste refractory. Wood is easy enough to build a form with though and will be what happens if no one has ever done it with cardboard. Thanks for your reply Wayne. 

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16 hours ago, Wayne Coe said:

It would be better to follow the instructions and it is not that trouble to build the wooden form.  If you used the cardboard how would you attach to the floor?  If it doesn't work out well you will have to get more castable and still have to build the form.

Let me know if I can help you.

Hey Wayne the 2” gate valve you show on your website for the ribbon burner forge, is it absolutely necessary? They are quite pricey. Im gonna end up spending more on the piping than i did building the forge lol. 

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4 hours ago, Jontroutt said:

Hey Wayne the 2” gate valve you show on your website for the ribbon burner forge, is it absolutely necessary? They are quite pricey. Im gonna end up spending more on the piping than i did building the forge lol. 

I just built one and it was round equivalent of 40 bucks for the gate itself. AND then I had to change blower for one with 1 1/2" exit. :D

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Jon, you need the gate valve so that you can fine tune the air flow, therefore, the atmosphere inside the forge and the temp.  I got mine on e-bay for $15.00 total.  You could use a PVC gate valve for more reasonable pricing.

 

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2 hours ago, Wayne Coe said:

Jon, you need the gate valve so that you can fine tune the air flow, therefore, the atmosphere inside the forge and the temp.  I got mine on e-bay for $15.00 total.  You could use a PVC gate valve for more reasonable pricing.

 


the blowers that have that little sliding block off plate, im assuming that they dont provide enough control then correct? 

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The only problem with those is that the slide can slip unexpectedly.  That's why Geoff uses a magnetic flap.  

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10 hours ago, Jontroutt said:


the blowers that have that little sliding block off plate, im assuming that they dont provide enough control then correct? 

No Jon, that is not adequate.

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7 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

The only problem with those is that the slide can slip unexpectedly.  That's why Geoff uses a magnetic flap.  

Ahh Didn’t even think of that makes total sense gate valve it is then thank youDidn’t even think of that makes total sense gate valve it is then thank you

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