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Quick 1095 HT Q? hardness water vs parks 50


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The title pretty much states my question. The local metal super market sells 1095 fairly cheap....shipping prices from the barron to utah are pretty brutal.

Most my blades lately are that or unused leaf springs from a local spring shop I buy for 4$ a pound.

I have been having pretty good luck in just brine....I will go in real fast for a differential and then after about 1 second I slowly plunge the rest of the blade in.

I did a quick etch and this one has a decent hamon.(that I sanded off) This one has a casting void on the bottom of the bolster so I guess its gonna be my letter opening carpet cutting knife at work.

Does a blade of 1095 get harder in water....the same.....or not as hard as parks.

My thoughts are it should be about the same. 

Any one else run into the void thing....this is the second time this year thats happened.

I may get bored after I get caught up here at work and post a pic.

Any guesses as to the wood on this blade. The guy I get my stuff from in south africa thinks this is ironwood.

Certainly doesnt look like what I think ironwood is.

1095blade.jpg

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Assuming one forms martensite to the same levels during quenching (beware retained austenite and/or pearlite/bainite) then the hardnesses should be close enough to be indistinguishable from each other.  The biggest thing is that that is one heck of an assumption.  

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