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First Damascus build


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Ok feel stupid asking this. But I'm getting ready to start my first damascus blade.  Trying not to jack it up too bad as its going to be a xmas present hopefully for my father in law. Stacking 1095 and 15N20.  I have seen it done but all of a sudden my brain is just shutting off and second guessing.

 

You stack it and then forge weld it and flatten it out to shape. Restack it as many time depending on the layer count your want.

 

The part my brain is messing up though in my head is what side to you put the edge? By that I mean the sides of the knife are the "bread of the sandwich" or not.  I know stupid question, please don't crucify me LOL. I keep looking at how the layers would look and the pattern and its screwing me up for some reason.  I'm just over thinking it.

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19 minutes ago, Barney Barnett said:

Ok feel stupid asking this. But I'm getting ready to start my first damascus blade.  Trying not to jack it up too bad as its going to be a xmas present hopefully for my father in law. Stacking 1095 and 15N20.  I have seen it done but all of a sudden my brain is just shutting off and second guessing.

 

You stack it and then forge weld it and flatten it out to shape. Restack it as many time depending on the layer count your want.

 

The part my brain is messing up though in my head is what side to you put the edge? By that I mean the sides of the knife are the "bread of the sandwich" or not.  I know stupid question, please don't crucify me LOL. I keep looking at how the layers would look and the pattern and its screwing me up for some reason.  I'm just over thinking it.

With modern steels like these two any difference between the two is largelly cosmetical. I had a knife broken on me recently prior tempering and it was L6 and O1 welded together, but it was also all through martensite on the break. There was no mechanical difference between the two I think. With wild damascus it does not matter.

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Jaro hit it on the head.

But, here's my take on it...

 

If you get a good, proper forge weld- any side of the knife can be the edge... the only reason it matters then, is cosmetic. At that point- it's all solid steel.

 

Generally- in a plain stack pattern, or a layered setup like San mai, or go mai... you use the edge of the stack after you forge weld them together and draw out flat.

 

This puts the layers parallel with your cutting edge. When ground through, the contrast is revealed in the sides of the blade.

 

Different patterns, especially more complex like a mosiac tiles damascus... the edge can be where you desire to make it, depending on your pattern plan.

 

Even a simple stack and twist can vary your layers bringing a different effect. I could then make any side the edge.

 

My first twist for an example.

20210309_141409.jpg

Edited by Welsh joel
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Ok thanks guys! Thats what I was thinking but then my brain started overthinking it LOL. 

12 hours ago, Welsh joel said:

Jaro hit it on the head.

But, here's my take on it...

 

If you get a good, proper forge weld- any side of the knife can be the edge... the only reason it matters then, is cosmetic. At that point- it's all solid steel.

 

Generally- in a plain stack pattern, or a layered setup like San mai, or go mai... you use the edge of the stack after you forge weld them together and draw out flat.

 

This puts the layers parallel with your cutting edge. When ground through, the contrast is revealed in the sides of the blade.

 

Different patterns, especially more complex like a mosiac tiles damascus... the edge can be where you desire to make it, depending on your pattern plan.

 

Even a simple stack and twist can vary your layers bringing a different effect. I could then make any side the edge.

 

My first twist for an example.

20210309_141409.jpg

Love that handle. What is it?

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I don't... lol.

It's a stabilized pine cone scale set. My first thought was to make the scales smaller than the tang- to leave the pattern exposed & visible.

 

It's uncomfortable to hold, and the pinecone is very brittle where exposed.

 

It cracked, and I didn't like the way it felt in hand- so I have yet to decide what's going on it.

 

This was my first hand hammered damascus blade. Plan on keeping it for myself, so I'm watching for something else I like for it!

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14 hours ago, Welsh joel said:

I don't... lol.

It's a stabilized pine cone scale set. My first thought was to make the scales smaller than the tang- to leave the pattern exposed & visible.

 

It's uncomfortable to hold, and the pinecone is very brittle where exposed.

 

It cracked, and I didn't like the way it felt in hand- so I have yet to decide what's going on it.

 

This was my first hand hammered damascus blade. Plan on keeping it for myself, so I'm watching for something else I like for it!

Well the look of it in a pic is cool at least.  Hadn't seen one like that before. Sucks on the uncomfortableness and that it is brittle and cracked.

13 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Thanks Joshua. Was looking around in here at work and didn't see this one

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