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Blades of the wyvern hunter wip


Bjorn Gylfason
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10 hours ago, Francis Gastellu said:

Looking good! Do you grind your fullers freehand on a narrow wheel? I've always been too scared to try that... it requires skills :P

 

I don't have any wheels small enough on the grinder for these and because I like to make curved blades I've gotten used to just using my die grinder to free hand them in. The first few passes are the hard ones but once they are in it goes pretty fast

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2 hours ago, Bjorn Gylfason said:

just using my die grinder to free hand them in.

 

:ph34r: :blink:

 

Not even a little guide finger thingy like Peter Johnsson uses?  

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4 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

 

:ph34r: :blink:

 

Not even a little guide finger thingy like Peter Johnsson uses?  

 

I do remember seeing that and thought it was brilliant and I really should build an adjustable guide to clamp on the die grinder. But then again I always forget about it until I'm about to make some fullers :lol:

 

 

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5 hours ago, Bjorn Gylfason said:

I really should build an adjustable guide to clamp on the die grinder.

It only takes about 15 minutes to bend a piece of flat stock and a couple of hose clamps.

 

Set up V2.jpg

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  

 

Josh

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  • 3 weeks later...

That felt like eternity. Reliefs cut on the front part of the guard, remind me to get a jewelers saw before I do something like this again :lol:

 

Next will be another eternity with files to get some depth and shape to it and then repeat on the back half

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Going to be filing away on the large guard for the next days.

 

But here's a peenIMG_20220423_134621.jpg

 

And a cleaned peen

 

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Have the grip core formed so next will be adding some risers and do some leatherwork while I figure out what kind of scabbard it will get

 

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Been shaping the front half of the guard today. Was taking forever with the files so while rummaging through my drawers looking for something useful I came across a box of these tiiiiny mill bits. No recollection where I got them from but chucked them into the Dremel and they seem to work great for bulk removal of materialsIMG_20220424_142309.jpgIMG_20220424_150523.jpg

 

Still going to take a day or two more of filing to get the face of the plate where I want it

 

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Day 4 of this guard, still a lot to do to the individual pieces before assembly and then there will be even more filing after that too :lol:

 

The back plate has a different design that I'm still getting the shape of but four of the holes match up with the front and will be opened up on the horn pieces as well

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Assembled the guard, took the guard off the wakiseax and did a pretty rough 150grit finish on both followed by a light buff. I think that should give me a good base for that patina I have in mind

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Then, as the waki has a habaki that also needs patina I put the guard back on it and now I'm letting both fume overnight with ammonia.

 

That will just be the first phase of patina on them as there will be more brass fittings on the grips. Plan is to then give those fittings the same treatment before assembly and then once everything is together they will get more cycles to get an even finish and Matt out any bright spots from various peening and nailing

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Went on with sanding the blade yesterday and then left it overnight in fresh vinegar acid.

 

In retrospect I see that next time I'll need to make the twisted parts longer and straight sections shorter on the middle bars and the edgebar could have been smaller as well. 

 

Now the question is wether and how I could weather and antique the blades up to fit the old and worn look?

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1 hour ago, Bjorn Gylfason said:

Now the question is wether and how I could weather and antique the blades up to fit the old and worn look

 

First, degrease thoroughly, then wipe them with chlorine bleach.  This will cause pitting.  Next, lean them against the wall and urinate on them.  This adds a rich brown patina if you do it carefully for a few days in a row.  Then you can polish them back as bright as you want, leaving the patina in the hard to reach areas.

 

Crude but effective! :lol:

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Wow, I had some catching up to do on this thread.  I've enjoyed this one, but always wait until I have some time to really read it before checking in.  Great progress, and craftsmanship!  

 

Oh, would someone remind me to never eat with any of Alan's period looking pieces?

 

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-Brian

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It's an historical method of browning steel.  Boil the steel in water and you will have a black patina.  Of course you can substitute muratic acid for pee.

 

Doug

HELP...I'm a twenty year old trapped in the body of an old man!!!

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Wakiseax grip sewn on and it's sheath is taking shape. Looks like a few days of drilling and filing for the metal fittings will be needed

 

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And got the wooden core for the sword shaped and only need to wrap a few hundred meters of threads still before giving it a coat of glue.

 

After measuring back and forth along with much brainstorming I ended up with a much shorter grip than I had thought of at some point. It's still massive though :lol: but brings the overall length down to something that could be easily carried on your sideIMG_20220430_171319.jpg

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Got the pins peened on the waki grip and added a buttplate.

 

 

IMG_20220501_171017.jpg

 

To help with the aged look I chose a dye that is quite hard to apply evenly and went out of my way to apply it as unevenly and badly as I could

 

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And of course I was out of the thickness of brass I want to use for the sheath fitting <_< will brush the guard up a little bit and once everything is peened on I'll give it some more fuming to even out the patina and hopefully even get some of it to stain onto the leather.

 

 

Then I sewed up the grip and wrapped parts of it while burnishing the long part to shape it to the core. Planning on some tooling and fanciness there.

 

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and while letting it dry I began prep for the scabbard core. It is oh so much easier with a bare blade.

 

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And I'm using the excuse that this is pure fantasy to experiment a bit with the scabbard. Sword will be carried edge up, probably with a baldric. Both sheath and scabbard will be ambidextrous both because being a lefty myself it's convenient and to give more options on as to how the wyvern hunter would have carried his blades

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  • Bjorn Gylfason changed the title to Blades of the wyvern hunter wip
On 4/29/2022 at 7:59 AM, Alan Longmire said:

 

First, degrease thoroughly, then wipe them with chlorine bleach.  This will cause pitting.  Next, lean them against the wall and urinate on them.  This adds a rich brown patina if you do it carefully for a few days in a row.  Then you can polish them back as bright as you want, leaving the patina in the hard to reach areas.

 

Crude but effective! :lol:

Ahh, Tai Goo's old-fashioned Pisspatina!

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The Tidewater Forge

Christopher Price, Bladesmith

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33 minutes ago, Christopher Price said:

Ahh, Tai Goo's old-fashioned Pisspatina!

 

As taught to me by Hershel House several years before Tai described it. ;)

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