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Yep! Core is the word I was looking for.  If you do that, drill a bunch of little holes in and through the remaining pewter core to lock the overcast in place.  Through-holes are important. I've had a pipe hawk mouthpiece come loose without them.  The new pour will not melt or bond to the old pewter, so you need a really good mechanical lock.  Deep grooves around the perimeter and through-holes that vent towards the point so the new pewter can fill the channels completely. Agitate the piece while the pewter is still liquid. It'll get bubbles on top, which is how you know it's working.  Just don't splash it out, that stuff hurts when it runs down the back of your hand. 

 

Jerrod's idea would work too, but the line will always be there visible in the filework.  An inlay would do it, though.  

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Thanks again Allen! Very helpful!

      Thanks for chiming in  Jerrod. I like the thought of a inlay.  I’m trying to do it early American look so not sure what kind of material to use as a inlay. There would have to be a seam in the inlay but I suppose that would be held together with the pewter pour.

     Thanks guys!!!

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so I decided to remove pewter from the edges and leave a core. Then to re pour. In drilled multiple holes into the existing pewter core before re pouring. Mostly a success! It decided not to flow around this one spot an the spine. I guess that’s the nature of the material. Still need to do final hand sanding on everything but it getting thier! 

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Hey, will ferric do anything to my elk antler? I need to touch up some places  on the wrought iron with ferric now that the butt cap is on. 
    I plan on using q tips to apply the ferric. I will also tape  the antler with blue painters tape. 
     Thanks 

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Thanks again Allan!!! That is supper helpful as usual!!! So many questions you just can’t find answers to! This form is great because it eliminates  so much hard trial and error!! 

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