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Propane forge build - Fire brick doors and tool rest


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Hi everyone. I'm sure everyone's sick of the 'first propane forge build pls halp' posts which you must get all the time here, so I apologise for adding another one. I've read a lot of the previous posts, but I have a couple of specific questions and I'd be hugely appreciative of any input. 

 

1 - Soft Fire Brick Doors

 

As you will see from the attached image, my forge is a metal cylinder lined with ceramic wool. I haven't coated the wool yet, and I'm still not sure how to strengthen the floor. Anyway - I want to use soft fire bricks for the front and back doors, but what I'm wondering is: do they need some kind of support (e.g. angle iron sliders) to hold them in place, or should they just stand free? I see some people have fashioned supports for brick doors, and some just stand the bricks up on the table. It seems to me that supports would be a good idea to prevent the doors knocking over. 

 

2 - Work rest

 

This actually relates to point (1) - I was thinking of making a work rest for long stock by running a square piece under the front of the forge (see image), but this gets in the way of the doors (which probably doesn't matter too much as it's just a 15mm gap). But maybe if I make a sliding support out of angle iron for the bricks they can slide over the top of the work rest..? Or am I over-thinking it..? 

 

What do you guys think? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Photo 16-3-22, 5 27 37 pm.jpg

Photo 16-3-22, 5 27 15 pm.jpg

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I use the thin hard fire brick for doors. Mine take a beating because I'm usually moving them back and forth with tongs. I'd beat soft brick to death in short order.

 

I've built myself a free-standing adjustable work rest. It extends to use with my forge and I can lower it to accommodate my metal cutting band saw.

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6 minutes ago, Don Abbott said:

thin hard fire brick for doors. 

Thanks for the reply Don. Do you have any support to keep them upright? Like angle iron sliding channels? Or do they just stand in front of the forge on their ends? 

 

7 minutes ago, Don Abbott said:

a free-standing adjustable work rest.

Yeah, I thought about that too. Maybe that's the best option. More versatile... 

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18 minutes ago, BenjaminSelby said:

Do you have any support to keep them upright? Like angle iron sliding channels?

 

Yeah, I welded tracks out of 1" angle all the way across the front and back. Four bricks, two front, two back.

 

I keep the back closed unless I need a pass thru.

 

blown forge.jpg

Edited by Don Abbott
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One very important thing to address is what kind of burner you're using.  If it doesn't use a blower/fan/forced air source, you can't close the doors all the way or it'll go out.  Venturi burners have to have an exhaust opening equal to about a third the size of the cross section at the smallest.

 

That said, you can set the bricks a few cm away from the front to get both adequate exhaust and reflected heat.  

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Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at

www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com.

Let me know if I can help you.

About $100.00 plus the hose, regulator and burner using a 20# Propane tank.

 

 

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Wayne Coe
Artist Blacksmith
729 Peters Ford Road
Sunbright, Tennessee
706-273-8017
waynecoe@highland.net
www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com

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6 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Venturi burners have to have an exhaust opening equal to about a third the size of the cross section at the smallest.

Interesting point - I didn't know about that, but of course it makes perfect sense. Thanks. 

3 hours ago, Wayne Coe said:

Check out the Build a Gas Forge and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page  

Thanks for the info Wayne - I've actually already emailed you because I'm looking for something firm to use to create the forge floor, and was wondering if you shipped to Australia. 

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