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I'm attempting to make a wolf tooth billet from 7/8" WI bar forge welded to high carbon steel.   I used one bar to forge in 4 teeth per inch. Each tooth is 4mm deep.  I  cleaned up the forge scale and was wondering if I'm on the right path?  I was considering getting some 3/4" W2 round bar and hand forging the round bar into the teeth.  Anyone have some critique or suggestions I would appreciate it. 

20220321_062809.jpg

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Experimentation by others has shown that you have to forge the iron into the cold toothed steel to get the right pattern that has the iron flowing into the teeth.  That said, I'd forge teeth into both and then weld.  That way you get crisp teeth, flow in the iron, and the steel doesn't care. There's a few threads in the History subforum that describe the process.

 

I'd also keep the starting bars as close to the desired finished size as possible.  You'll lose a lot of definition if you draw that out.  When I do a multibar migration-era or Viking era pattern, the bars are no more than 3/8" thick, and I try for 1/4" thick.  That way there is minimal drawing out to distort the pattern.  There's a lot of info on that in the "is your beard still burning" thread in the Fiery Beards subforum.

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1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

Experimentation by others has shown that you have to forge the iron into the cold toothed steel to get the right pattern that has the iron flowing into the teeth.  That said, I'd forge teeth into both and then weld.  That way you get crisp teeth, flow in the iron, and the steel doesn't care. There's a few threads in the History subforum that describe the process.

 

I'd also keep the starting bars as close to the desired finished size as possible.  You'll lose a lot of definition if you draw that out.  When I do a multibar migration-era or Viking era pattern, the bars are no more than 3/8" thick, and I try for 1/4" thick.  That way there is minimal drawing out to distort the pattern.  There's a lot of info on that in the "is your beard still burning" thread in the Fiery Beards subforum.

 

Emiliano has probably done one of the better threads on this.

The Tidewater Forge

Christopher Price, Bladesmith

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Making my brain hurt so I got out some playdo to imagine what could happen.  Very distorted indeed.   I may have to rethink this one.  

20220321_180006.jpg

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Glad you checked before committing it to steel.  With these patterns, you make all the parts at finished dimensions and put them together as the final step prior to bevelling.

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There are many topics on this and experiments in making the renowned pattern. Using the site search engine, I tried "Wolf's tooth". "Wolf Teeth" and a couple other variations. I chose find all my search terms, and content titles only. Many hits and threads with some very experienced makers.

You are not the first to ask this esteemed collection of smiths for advice and guidance. So check out the threads in the search engine. 

This thread is particularly graphic.

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  

 

Josh

http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com/#!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

J.States Bladesmith | Facebook

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Thanks everyone.   I have researched and read many of the threads on the forum and just got a little sideways on this key requirement.   

On 3/22/2022 at 5:15 AM, Alan Longmire said:

 

With these patterns, you make all the parts at finished dimensions and put them together as the final step prior to bevelling.

 

My intentions are to use this pattern to make a draw knife for this year's KITH.  If I don't run out of steam, I will cut the WI in half length wise.  From there I can forge weld a longer section on the spine for the extended handles. Then forge down closer to blade width, refine the teeth and finish with a wolf tooth forge weld.    

 

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