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1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

suspect you're getting it too hot.  High carbon steel crumbles like that when overheated.  Try it at around 2200 F and see if that helps.

My guess is with Alan. Not only temp but time as well. 30 minute soak is way too long in my opinion. I judged welding heat by the appearance of flux. Yes I put flux on the outside of the canister just as a temperature indicator. When I could see welding heat on the outside of the canister, maybe another 5 to 10 minutes for the core to catch up. Never really timed it. Some stainless crumbles like that as well in extreme heat for long times. Way way back I laid a piece of ss in the forge floor trying to keep the billet clean. Pretty quickly I was seeing small crumbles of the ss being forged into my billet as my pretty ss floor deteriorated. Don't remember what type of ss was used in my failed experiment. 

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Ditto what Alan said on temps. Way, way to hot. 

Personally I use miod steel cans, 52100 bearings, 1080, 1084 or 1095 powder with a small percentage of nickel powder to add contrast. No nickel, Not much contrast. Heat to 2290/2300F and soak  for at least 15 minutes or longer depending on my  patience.  Longer is better. 

Also try to darken room while heating so I can see color of metal. BUT since I never use stainless  cans I don't know how the colors would look. 

Good luck 

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2 hours ago, Matt Walker said:

Don't remember what type of ss was used in my failed experiment.

 

Was it that 440C strip stock that Jim had?

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I suspected it was too hot, but wasn't sure.  Thanks for the confirmation everyone.  I followed Alan's advice on the temp and stuck to keeping around 2200 degrees.  It came out MUCH better.  Only very small cracks in a few corners that should easily grind out! 

 

20220416_160212.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Knives are finished.  They came out pretty nice.  Had enough for 2.  Top knife handle is desert ironwood and the bottom is leopard wood.  Both already sold too!

20220613_112355.jpg

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